복식 (Journal of the Korean Society of Costume)
- 제7권
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- Pages.5-19
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- 1983
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- 1229-6880(pISSN)
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- 2287-7827(eISSN)
조선왕조(朝鮮王朝)의 왕비법복(王妃法服)에 관한 연구(硏究)
A STUDY OF SACREDOTAL ROBE FOR QUEEN IN CHO-SUN DYNASTY
초록
Sacredotal robe(法服) means full court dress. We can't know about the shape of sacredotal robe before Dae-Han Empire(大韓帝國) since there are no remains of it. The study of sacredotal robe for queen have also been made centering around the socredotal robe granted from Ming(明) dynasty and the system of Juck-Eui(翟衣) in Dae-Han Empire. In this thesis I tried to study about the sacredotal robe for queen from King Gong-Min(恭愍王) of Koryeo(高麗) dynasty to the close the Cho-Sun(朝鮮) dynasty by investigating the Literature of Cho-sun Dynasty Chronicles(朝鮮王朝實錄), Ga Rae Do Gam Eui Gue(嘉禮都監儀軌), Sang Bang Jung Rae(尙方定例), Gook Hon Jung Rae(國婚定例), Sok-Orae Eui-Bo(續五禮儀補), and Dae Myung Whe Jeon(大明會典). The first documents on sacredotal robe for queen is regarded as that in the period of King Gong Min., which says that Chil Whee Gu Bong Gwan and Juck Eui of the 9th grade had been given from Ming dynasty. The sacredotal robe for queen in Chosun had been granted from Ming dynasty since the 3th years of King Tae-Jo(太祖) to the 3th years of King In-Jo(仁祖). They were Ju Chui Chil Juck Gwan, red Dae Sam(大衫), Bae Ja(褙子) embroidered with. pheasants on blue silk, and ivory flat baton (笏), which belonged to the court dress for the first class of court lady. When Qing(淸) dynasty succeeded to Ming dynasty, Cho-sun adopted the system of luck Eui which had it's origin in the system of Ming, denying to comply with Chung. But as a matter of fact, the system of sacredotal robe for queen actually used was one which were different from the dress system of Ming and converted into our national ways. In the latter period. of Cho-sun, the system of Bae Ja or Juck Eui were used together until the period of King Young Jo(英祖), and the system of Juck Eui which was written in Gook Hon Jung Rae was continually used from King Young Jo to the close of Cho-sun. It was composed of Juck Eui, Beol Eui(別衣), Nae Eui(內衣), Pe Sool(蔽膝), Dae Dae(大帶), HaPi, Sang(裳), Ok Dae(玉帶), Pae Ok(佩玉), Gue(圭), Mal(襪), Suk, and Myun sa(面紗), The headdress was used in our own ways, not complying with Juck Gwan(翟冠). The color of Juck Eui was red for queen, deep blue for the consort of the crown prince. The color of Juck Eui in DaHan Empire was deep blue, different from that of Juck Eui in Cho-sun. Bo(補) for queen wus embroidered with dragon with five claws and the one for the consort of crown prince with dragon with four claws. The back length of Juck Eui was longer than front about 28cm (1尺), and the front opening was straight down. 51 motifs of a brace of pheasants which were similiar to Bong(鳳) were embroidered on Juck Eui for queen. But we can't find out whether there 31 or 51 on Juck Eui for the consort of the crown prince. The system shows independant aspects, because there are Bo, Myun Sa, Sang, Ha Pi, Beol Eui, and Nae Eui which were not found in the system of Ming. As mentioned above, I have studied on the sacredotal robe for queen. But we can't guess the detail of sacredotal robe for queen, because there are no remains at all. Therefore I expect more study on this.
키워드