A Study on Jik-Ryoung(直領)

직령(直領)에 관한 연구(硏究)

Jik-Ryoung was originally desinged to be worn by lower-class people in the reign of King Woo(A.D 1387, Goryeo) when official dresses and headgear were redsigned according to Ming's (明) style. It was observed that Jik-Ryoung was the same Po(袍) as Dan-Ryoung(團領) except its straight collar. Nowadays we can find through documents and original forms of Jik-Ryoung itself that Jik-Ryoung prevailed from the beginning to the end of the Yi Dynasty. Lower class people wore this coat until King Sejo(世祖), but from that time the Jik-Ryoung could be worn only by the Noble class as street clothes and home wear as well. Middle class people wore this coat as an office wear. Its style had changed from narrow sleeves and Moo (무, a reinforcing cloth strip) at the beginning to widers and Moo after the middle years of the Dynasty and finally fixed its style to sewing upper parts of Moo together. While red, white, and blue were the common colors, silk, hemp, cotton, and ramie were preferred materials to be made of.