An Ergonomic Study on the Function of the Basic Pattern of Clothing -On the Expansion and Contraction of the Skin Surface of the Upper Body-

의복 원형의 기능성에 관한 인간공학적 연구

The functional problems of the basic pattern of clothing are a matter of the first importance to clothing construction. Therefore, the ergonomic analysis of the expansion and contraction of the upper body surface, due to motion, has become required. thus in order to obtain the measurements and rate of expansion and contraction of the upper body surface following from its motions, the development figure of " Shell" and somatometry were employed. The results obtained through the investigation can be summarized as follows : 1) According to the developmental figures of "Shell" the latitudes centering around the shoulder line present contractive tendencies by arm movement. The longitudes around the center back waist length are expansive tendencies when bent forward. In the case of a 15$^{\circ}$ lean backward posture, the longitudes around the center front waist length are expansive tendencies. 2) By somatometry, the region from the scapula to the axilla point the upper back with presents the greatest expansion (more than 30%). The region from scapla to arm presents the maximum rate of contraction. In considering the longitude , under the axilla waist length and the bust point waist length generally shows the greatest rate of expansion. 3) The bust point waist length and under the axilla waist length are of great importance to the basic pattern of clothing. and have expansive tendencies(6.3cm). Among the latitudes, the upper back width has the greatest tendency for expansion (7.83 cm). 4) The region which presents the greatest rate of the expansion and contraction is in the proximity of the arm. These results testify that the amount of room of the back width must be given consideration in constructing the basic pattern of clothing.pattern of clothing.