Astudy on the classification of Eastern Coastal line of korea from the view point of Prevailing Wave Direction

탁월파랑에 의한 동해안선 분류의 조사연구

The approaching deep water wave heights and directions affect the wave energy which is carried to the coast. By studing the relations between the longshore wave energy theory and the evolution of coastline, writer can arrive following conclusion. The longshore lottoral drifting affects to a great deal the formation of the coast, and by investigating on the eastern coastal geomophorogy of korea, the theory was proued as a true and made it possible to an approaching to the subdivided classification of eastern coast of lorea. That is to asy that angle taken by the level between the wave crest line of prevailing wave(NE) and the coastline was measured as less than 15#, and in the area neighboring the river which served as source of Sand parrticles, there are grand scale formation of sand beach expectable, in the other hand the formation of sand beach in case of $35^{\circ}{\leq}{\alpha }o{\leq}55^{\circ}$ which represents the vivid phenomena of longshore littoral drifting was proved not influencial but rather transformed into a rocky coast. Depending on the above facts the writer classified general shape of the coast affected by the vivid wave action into the following three, (1) The equilibrium beach. (2) Erosinal beach. (3) Geomophorogical beach, and made the sandy and rocky coast are subdivided as S-A.B.C. and R-DEF.