Studies on the compound spun silk and its fabrics

복합견방사 및 그 제품개발에 관한 연구

In this study several kinds of spun silk yarn-synthetic filament compounded yarn was manufactured, and several fabrics woven from above mentioned silk compound yarn for evaluation of serviceability as clothing materials. The following results were obtained: 1. Degumming agents are in the order of sodium silicate, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbornate, soap and water. 2. When the concentration of sodium hydroxide is exceeded 3%, degradation of floss silk property is resulted because of excessive dissolving out of silk protein. 3. Degumming effect is much improved by concentration of degumming agent and less by its treating time. 4. Simultaneous application of more the 2 kinds of degumming agent is desirable for improvement of floss silk. 5. Application of natural organic acid brings very good results in keeping original scooping and color of the silk. 6. Load and elongation it increased by compound with synthetic filament yarn. 7. Even the evenness of compound yarn is largely dependent on the quality of floss silk and extent of degumming, the C.V.% of silk compound yarn in the experiment was 8-12%. 8. Single bath dyeing technique was impossible for their cloth, and dyeing was performed in 2 bath system separately for silk and synthetic fiber. 9. Shrinkage ratio due to the dyeing of fabric was 23% in case of polyester and spun silk fabric. 10. The final woven cloth can be applicable to (a) Blouse in care of thin cloth (compound silk fabric) (b) Korean costume for women in case of thick cloth. (compound hand spun silk fabric)

복합견방사 및 복합견직물을 시작하여 다음의 결과를 얻었다. 1 정연제별 처리효과는 규산소다, 가성소다, 탄산소 및 비누의 순이다. 2. 가성소다 3% 액으로 정연할 경우는 견담백질의 과잉 용해로 진면제조가 불가하다. 3. 견의 정연효과는 처리시간보다 농도가 크다. 4. 정연제의 단독사용보다는 이중이상을 혼용하는 것이 진면품질을 향상시킬 수 있다. 5. 견수방사의 명주소리와 광택향상을 위하여서는 유기산의 혼용이 요구된다. 6. 심사에 의하여 복합수방사의 강도는 증가한다. 7. 복합수방사의 성도변동율은 8∼l2%이다. 8. 견과 데도롱직의 염색은 이욕법으로 처리하여야 한다. 9. 복합수방사 견직물의 수축율은 23%이다. 10. 복합수방사직물은 여자용 동복지로 복합생사 직물은 부라우스지로 사용 가능하다.