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The Comparison between Subjective Evaluation and Objective Evaluation of Fabric Hand (직물의 주관적인 태 평가와 객관적인 태 평가의 비교)

  • 김경애;이미식
    • Textile Science and Engineering
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    • v.35 no.9
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    • pp.592-600
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    • 1998
  • The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. Koshi, hari, kisimi and shinayakasa showed high correlation with all subjective hand values of sense of weight, surface properties, moisture related properties, flexibility, thermal character, however, shari and fukurami revealed low correlation with all subjective hand value. Comparing objective total hand value and subjective fabric preference, total hand value did not show a meaningful difference as the weight loss increased, however, subjective preference showed a meaningful difference. According to the result of comparison between mechanical property and subjective hand evaluation, hand value and subjective hand value, total hand value and fabric preference, it is thought that subjective evaluation is more proper for the hand evaluation of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester thin fabrics.

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A Study on the Wearing Silhouette of Jackets According to the Mechanical Properties and Hands of 3 types of Fabrics (직물의 역학적 특성 및 태에 따른 재킷의 착의 실루엣 연구)

  • 배정숙;임지영
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.6
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    • pp.185-195
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    • 2002
  • This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

Blending Effect on the Mechanical and Hand Properties of Wool/Acrylic Blend Knits

  • Park Myung-Ja
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.23-31
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    • 2005
  • Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

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The physiological properties and sensibility of PET irradiated by ultraviolet rays (UV조사 처리한 PET의 역학적 특성변화와 감성평가)

  • Choi, Hae-Young;Lee, Jung-Soon
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.275-281
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate hand and sensibility of PET treated by Ultra-Violet (UV). The 4-channel PET knit fabric was treated by a self-made UV instrument in 5cm distance with different time frames-0min, 30min, and 90min. For hand evaluation, mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The environmental condition was controlled at 29$^{\circ}C$, 75% (R.H.)-summer standard climate. Twenty female students evaluated 'roughness', 'smoothness', 'wetness', 'stiffness', 'coolness', 'touch', 'preference', and 'comfort'. The outcomes of the experiment are as follows: The surface roughness of mechanical properties showed significant differences and the value of PET irradiated by UV for 90min was highest. The order of primary hand value such as NUMERI and FUKURAMI was in a following order-Untreated > 30min treated > 90min treated. Total hand value showed that PET irradiated by UV for 90min was appropriate for using summer fabric. The results of subjective sensibility were that the untreated and 30min treated PET were recognized as similar and had a good evaluation on 'comfort', 'preference' and 'the sense of touch'. This consequence disagreed with total hand value, because it was considered that subjects' hand sensibility was dependent on the feel of smoothness.

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Effect of Aftertreatments for Washing on Mechanical Properties of Knitted Fabrics (세탁수처리제가 편성물의 역학적 특성치에 미치는 영향)

  • Kim, Hee-Eun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.174-179
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    • 2001
  • This study investigated the effect of aftertreatments such as using the softener or starch on the mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. The mechanical properties of fabrics, hand value(HV) and total hand value(THV) were measured and calculated by the KES-F system. The main results are as follows: The values of tensile energy(WT), coefficient of friction(MIU) and geometrical roughness(SMD) were increased by softener but decreased by starch treatment. However, the values of tensile linearity(LT), bending(B, 2HB), thickness(T) and weight(W) were increased by starch but decreased by softener treatment. Tensile resilience(RT) was increased not only by softener but also by starch treatment. It showed that the levels of FUKURAMI, NUMERI and SOFUTOSA were increased by the treatment of softener and the levels of KOSHI and SHARI were increased by the treatment of starch. Total hand value(THV) was lower in fabric with starch treatment than fabric with none treatment.

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A Study on the Evaluation of the Hand Value of Korean Fabrics using the Artificial Neural Network (인공신경망을 이용한 한복지 태의 평가에 관한 연구)

  • Moon, Myeong-Hee
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.63-73
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study was to quantify the hands of fabrics for the Korean folk clothes using both a KES-FB and an artificial neural network. In order to select the proper input parameters, we calculated the correlation using step-wise regression between mechanical properties and the hand value of fabrics. For the classification, the primary hand values and total hand value, five neural networks with three-layered structure were constructed using the error back propagation algorithm and, in order to reduce errors and to speed up learning, the momentum method was selected. From the analysis of the primary and total hands using a self-constructed artificial intelligence system, the error rates of sleekness, stiffness, silkiness, and roughness compared with the judgement of expert panels were found to be 3.3%, 3.3%, 1.6%, and 4.9%, respectively, while that of the total hand was 9.83%.

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A Study on the Mechanical and Hand Properties of the Lining Fabrics (의복 안감의 역학적 특성 및 태 평가)

  • Kim, Myung-Ok;Uh, Mi-Kyung;Park, Myung-Ja
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.357-362
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    • 2006
  • This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

The Analysis of the Effect of the Vibration-proof Handle Used for the Reduction of Hand-transmitted Vibration (수전달 진동 저감을 위한 방진 핸들의 효과 분석)

  • Choi, Seok-Hyun;Jang, Han-Kee;Park, Tae-Won
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Noise and Vibration Engineering Conference
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    • pp.146-149
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    • 2005
  • Thesedays, the reduction of hand-transmitted vibration of hand-held power tools is important issue for operators' welfare, In the study, frequency response function is measured and vibration total value is evaluated for solving the principle and effect of the BOSCH's vibration-proof handle. This handle functions as a dynamic damper and has the effect, 22% vibration total value reduction under idling condition using a system that consists of a PC with data acquisition system and LabVIEW program. The program in the system makes it possible to evaluate vibration total value according to ISO 5349. This handle offers a good example for figuring out the physical contradiction between the work efficiency and operators' health.

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The Evaluation of Physical Properties and Hand of Bast/Man-Made Fiber Mixed Fabrics (마와 인조섬유 교직물의 물성 및 평가)

  • 김순심;양진숙;최종명
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.6
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    • pp.828-837
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and the hand of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics compared to linen. The mixed fabrics were made by rayon, polyester and modal fiber as warp yarn, and ramie, flax, rayon/flax and cotton/flax as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength/extension, water absorbancy and warmth retention were measured for test fabrics. The mechanical properties were measured by Kawabata system, and the hand value was calculated by previously developed equation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The crease resistance and drape properties of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics were improved compared to those of linen. The tensile strength of polyester/bast fiber mixed fabrics increased compared to those of linen, but rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mired fabrics decreased. The extension of all mixed fabrics was increased compared to that of linen. The rayon/ramie and modal/ramie mixed fabrics showed lower warmth retention than linen. The mixed fabrics used rayon and modal as warp yarn showed higher water absorbancy than linen. The Koshi and Hari hand value of all mixed fabrics showed lower than those of linen. Fukurami hand value showed little difference between mixed fabrics and linen. Shari, Kishimi, and Shinayakasa hand value of rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics showed higher than those of linen.

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Effect of DP Finishing Conditions on the Mechanical Properties and Hand of Cotton Fabrics (DP 가공조건이 면직물의 역학적 성질과 태에 미치는 영향)

  • 신윤숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.440-447
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    • 2000
  • The effects of DP finishing conditions including process technique and finishing agent on the mechanical properties and hand of cotton fabrics were investigated. 100% cotton fabrics were treated with NMA/DMDHEU and NMA/YF using wet-fixation and steam-fixation process. For comparison, conventional pad-dry-cure process was used with DMDHEU. After DP finishing, tensile and compressional resilience increased and bending hysteresis decreased, resulting in the improvement of dimensional stability of cotton fabric. WF and SF process rendered fabrics better shear properties, tensile energy, and compressional linearity and energy than PDC process. However, SF process produced fabrics with higher geometrical roughness than WF process. After DP finishing, primary hand values except Koshi increased, resulting in the increase of total hand value of cotton fabric.

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