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Characteristics of Ease in Men's Custom-fit Business Jackets (남성 맞춤 정장 재킷의 여유량을 결정짓는 요인들에 관한 연구)

  • Kang Yeosun;Choi Hei-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.28 no.12
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    • pp.1605-1616
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

Development of Torso Pattern according to the Physical Types of Men in 20s (20대 남성 체형 특성에 따른 토르소 원형 개발 연구)

  • 황은경;김인숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.415-428
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.

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A Comparative Study of Tight Skirt Sewing Methods -Focusing on the Sewing Methods Shown in Reference Text Books on Clothing Configuration and used in Domestic Consumer Products- (타이트스커트 봉제방법에 관한 비교 연구 -의복구성 교재와 국내 브랜드 제품을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Sun-Young;Choi, Young-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.11
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    • pp.1510-1519
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    • 2007
  • This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.

ACMs-based Human Shape Extraction and Tracking System for Human Identification (개인 인증을 위한 활성 윤곽선 모델 기반의 사람 외형 추출 및 추적 시스템)

  • Park, Se-Hyun;Kwon, Kyung-Su;Kim, Eun-Yi;Kim, Hang-Joon
    • Journal of the Korea Industrial Information Systems Research
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.39-46
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    • 2007
  • Research on human identification in ubiquitous environment has recently attracted a lot of attention. As one of those research, gait recognition is an efficient method of human identification using physical features of a walking person at a distance. In this paper, we present a human shape extraction and tracking for gait recognition using geodesic active contour models(GACMs) combined with mean shift algorithm The active contour models (ACMs) are very effective to deal with the non-rigid object because of its elastic property. However, they have the limitation that their performance is mainly dependent on the initial curve. To overcome this problem, we combine the mean shift algorithm with the traditional GACMs. The main idea is very simple. Before evolving using level set method, the initial curve in each frame is re-localized near the human region and is resized enough to include the targe region. This mechanism allows for reducing the number of iterations and for handling the large object motion. The proposed system is composed of human region detection and human shape tracking modules. In the human region detection module, the silhouette of a walking person is extracted by background subtraction and morphologic operation. Then human shape are correctly obtained by the GACMs with mean shift algorithm. In experimental results, the proposed method show that it is extracted and tracked efficiently accurate shape for gait recognition.

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Aesthetic Rhinoplasty for the Improvement of the Lateral Facial Profile; Image-up Rhinoplasty (얼굴의 측면 윤곽선 개선을 위한 미용 코성형술)

  • Min Sung
    • Archives of Plastic Surgery
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    • v.32 no.2
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    • pp.205-213
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    • 2005
  • There are several characteristics of the nose of orientals. The dorsum of nose is flat and low, the skin is thick with severe tension, the nasal tip is bulbous, the nostril is wide, and the projection of the nose is limited due to a poorly developed alar cartilage with a short columella. In order to improve these untoward characteristics of the nose of Orientals aesthetically, plain augmentation of the dorsum and tip-plasty with conventional methods has been performed by many plastic surgeons. However these conventional rhinoplasty is not enough to obtain satisfactory results when transforming into a more beautiful and aesthetically charming appearance. In order to produce the optimal nasal shape and profile, it is extremely important to consider the aesthetic surgical factors, which are; the position of the nasion, the optimal nasolabial angle(95-100 degree in Orientals), the natural exposure of infra-tip lobule with and columella, the position of the tip defining point in harmony with the dorsal profile and the smooth and natural silhouette of the lateral nasal profile as it descends into the inferior portion of the nose. From April, 2003 to August, 2004, a total of 52 patients underwent open rhinoplasty, adhering to the strict aesthetic principles considered and described priorly. Surgical approach was done through a transcolumella incision and an alar rim incision. The nasal dorsum was augmented with a silicone implant and the shape of the columella and the nasolabial angle were finessed with a silicone strut implant which was placed in between the medial crurae in a manner of a non-visible graft. The nasal tip was corrected by alar cartilage suture technique and onlay graft of shield shaped Alloderm and Gore-Tex. Author obtained the optimal nasal shape and profile aesthetically, and the results, considered satisfactory in all patients without any complications, are as follows; 1. the average increase in nasal length was 2.5 mm, 2. the average decrease in nasal width was 2.1 mm, 3. the average increase in nasal tip projection was 3.2 mm, 4. the changes of nasolabial angles were from 85.5 degree to 94.7 degree, 5. the changes of the angle between the long axis of the external naris was from 101.3 degree to 89.5 degree. In conclusion, this surgical procedure is an effective, reliable and a valuable method in improving the nasal shape, tip projection, nasolabial angle and especially, the lateral facial profile of Orientals aesthetically.

Difference in Weight Control Status and Eating Behavior between Dissatisfied and Satisfied Female High School Students Regarding Their Own Body Shape (체형 불만족군과 만족군 여고생의 체중조절 실태와 식행동의 차이)

  • Suh, Yoon-Suk;Kang, Hye-Jin;Chung, Young-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.354-363
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    • 2011
  • This study aimed to find the differences in weight control status and eating behavior of satisfied and dissatisfied female high school students regarding their own body shape. The participants consisted of 238 students at two female high schools in Nonsan-si, Chungnam-do in May of 2008. Self-assessment evaluated present body shape and ideal body shape they would like to have by providing silhouette drawings. The subjects were divided into two groups, 'satisfied' and 'dissatisfied', according to the differences between present body shape and ideal body shape. In the distribution of subjects according to body mass index, 100% of overweight, 97.0% of normal weight and 48.7% of underweight belonged to the dissatisfied group. There were significant differences in weight control and eating behavior between dissatisfied and satisfied groups in terms of frequency and reasons of conducting weight control behavior, body weight return after weight reduction, skipping breakfast and consuming fast food. The satisfied group was two times more likely to not conduct weight control behaviors compared to the dissatisfied group. The main reason for trying to control weight differed according to the group; the reason was feeling fat in the dissatisfied group and desiring to be healthy in the satisfied group. The percentage of subjects that returned to their original weights after weight reduction was 5 times higher in the dissatisfied group. The percentages of subjects that regularly skip breakfast and consume fast food were both higher in the dissatisfied group than in the satisfied group. The dissatisfied group responded 'eating alone' more frequently among nine binge eating behaviors compared to the satisfied group. Both groups, however, did not show any difference in overeating of meals, eating speed, intake frequency of regular meals, food preference, preferred cooking method, carbonated beverage intake and snack eating behavior. In summary, the dissatisfied group tried more unnecessary body weight reduction and had poor eating behavior. Accordingly, to correct the biased perception of body shape by the majority of female high school students, the values of our society should change toward the pursuit of beauty of health.

High-Quality Depth Map Generation of Humans in Monocular Videos (단안 영상에서 인간 오브젝트의 고품질 깊이 정보 생성 방법)

  • Lee, Jungjin;Lee, Sangwoo;Park, Jongjin;Noh, Junyong
    • Journal of The Korea Computer Graphics Society
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2014
  • The quality of 2D-to-3D conversion depends on the accuracy of the assigned depth to scene objects. Manual depth painting for given objects is labor intensive as each frame is painted. Specifically, a human is one of the most challenging objects for a high-quality conversion, as a human body is an articulated figure and has many degrees of freedom (DOF). In addition, various styles of clothes, accessories, and hair create a very complex silhouette around the 2D human object. We propose an efficient method to estimate visually pleasing depths of a human at every frame in a monocular video. First, a 3D template model is matched to a person in a monocular video with a small number of specified user correspondences. Our pose estimation with sequential joint angular constraints reproduces a various range of human motions (i.e., spine bending) by allowing the utilization of a fully skinned 3D model with a large number of joints and DOFs. The initial depth of the 2D object in the video is assigned from the matched results, and then propagated toward areas where the depth is missing to produce a complete depth map. For the effective handling of the complex silhouettes and appearances, we introduce a partial depth propagation method based on color segmentation to ensure the detail of the results. We compared the result and depth maps painted by experienced artists. The comparison shows that our method produces viable depth maps of humans in monocular videos efficiently.

A Study on Desirable Breast Type of Women in Their Twenties Based on the Ratio of Breast in Works of Art and Cup Design According to Breast Type (미술작품의 유방 실루엣 비율에 근거한 20대 여성의 바람직한 유방형태와 유형별 컵 설계에 관한 연구)

  • Sohn, Boo Hyun;Kweon, Soo Ae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.37 no.3
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    • pp.280-291
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    • 2013
  • This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.

A Study on the Successful Case of Brand Renewal through American National Brand 'C' Company's Marketing Strategy (미국(美國) 내셔널브랜드 C사(社)의 마케팅전략(戰略)을 통한 브랜드리뉴얼 성공사례(成功事例) 연구(硏究))

  • Koh, Hee-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.137-154
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    • 2002
  • It's not easy to renew old brand of over 50 years history to the tastes of new consumer of our time. Most of national brands that has a history of some 20 years in Korea have strove for continuation and growth of brand to no avails, which can be taken as a good example of current situation. For instance, C company, one of the National brand of US which has a history of 51 years, has made its position secure as a fashion group and based itself on a sound foundation by establishing new marketing strategy and completing successful brand renewal in the process of strategic M&A with Italian company. Those successful marketing strategies are as follows. 1) they regarded both market and consumer oriented marketing activity as company's highest priority strategy and put great emphasis upon concentration on target market and reestablishment of brand image of business casual wear. 2) Setting up and operating planning team composed of merchandizer alone in Milano, they set the direction of plan on the basis of concentrated research on potential item in market according to thorough market research done by buying office in Korea, branch office in Hong Kong and buyer in US prior to blueprint planning for season. 3) Great emphasis was placed on business which focused on intensive presentation of basic key item for apparel career women who are main consumer group in the midium-low prices market in US and on supplementation of size and color. they named this line 'collectibles' and helped their customer develop their own clothes plan without worrying about the change of color and fabric by supporting same fabric and color throughout the year and enabled them to add variation easily by supplementing new trend item. 4) Company set black as a main color that lots of apparel career women find easy to care and to express their own image and presented them with pebble which belongs to navy and beige and added fashion color such as wine and brown etc as season goes by. They constructed basic line in order for their customers to coordinate purchased item with new one or to add them to present collection, and to achieve efficient sale by setting up strategy which allows this cross coordination and changing pattern occasionally. 5) Though basic jacket for 99$, short slim skirt for 49$ are products within midium-low prices range, in the material planning stage aiming at production of item that has both resonable function appealing to consumer and is fashionable, synthetic material had to be used as a main source due to price competitiveness. Despite this situation, considering comfortable sense of fit and refined drape of silhouette that has no sign of cheap material, whole collectible line was divided into two items, which contributed to reduction of cost. In case of material that is composed of triacetate and polyester in 70 to 30 ratio, was used up to 4 million yard, which allowed drastic curtailment of cost accompanied by concentration. In case of 'collectibles' line, using Korean material mainly, C company chose to have their product sewed in Southeast Asian countries where transportation is well developed and both productivity and quality verified by operating global production system which aiming at cutdown of cost through outsourcing production from the country where labor cost is low and getting finished product. Polarization between present consumers telling us that consumers with the mind of middle classes in the past no longer exists between consumers who seek after only fine article of highest quality and wise consumers who are sensible enough to judge bubble on correlation between price and quality. To cope with this change in new consumer mind, apparel makes changing their policy so as to produce item that has reasonable quality and falls within affordable price range anywhere in the world. and they're striving to get out of difficult situation by operating global marketing strategy which stresses separation of planning, production and sale and sensibility of fashion shared worldwide. The marketing strategy of C company can be exemplified as a successful one.

A Study on the Actual Conditions of and Satisfaction with the Existed Female Dress Forms Usage (국내 여성용 인대 사용 실태 및 만족도에 관한 연구)

  • Park Gin-Ah;Lee Hye-Young;Choi Jin-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.378-385
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    • 2006
  • To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.