• Title, Summary, Keyword: Silhouette

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Analysis on Fashion Style of Salon Cultural Era Reflected on the Contemporary Fashion - Mainly about France of the 17th and 18th Centuries - (현대 패션에 나타난 살롱문화시대의 패션스타일에 대한 분석 - 17, 18세기 프랑스를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Min-Jung;Lee, In-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.1
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    • pp.14-28
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    • 2012
  • 'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.

Extended Cartoon Rendering using 3D Texture (3차원 텍스처를 이용한 카툰 렌더링의 만화적 스타일 다양화)

  • Byun, Hae-Won;Jung, Hye-Moon
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.11 no.8
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    • pp.123-133
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    • 2011
  • In this paper, we propose a new method for toon shading using 3D texture which renders 3d objects in a cartoon style. The conventional toon shading using 1D texture displays shading tone by computing the relative position and orientation between a light vector and surface normal. The 1D texture alone has limits to express the various tone change according to any viewing condition. Therefore Barla et. al. replaces a 1D texture with a 2D texture whose the second dimension corresponds to the view-dependent effects such as level-of-abstraction, depthof-field. The proposed scheme extends 2D texture to 3D texture by adding one dimension with the geometric information of 3D objects such as curvature, saliency, and coordinates. This approach supports two kinds of extensions for cartoon style diversification. First, we support "shape exaggeration effect" to emphasize silhouette or highlight according to the geometric information of 3D objects. Second, we further incorporate "cartoon specific effect", which is examples of screen tone and out focusing frequently appeared in cartoons. We demonstrate the effectiveness of our approach through examples that include a number of 3d objects rendered in various cartoon style.

Cross-cultural Research on Visual Values of Korean and Japanese Private Girl's High School Uniform -Focused on Private Girl's High School Uniform in Seoul and Tokyo- (한.일 사립 여고생 교복의 조형성에 관한 비교 문화 연구 -서울과 도쿄의 사립 여자 고등학교 교복을 중심으로-)

  • Yun, Su-Jeong;Kwon, Ha-Jin;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.7
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    • pp.30-44
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    • 2007
  • The culture includes every possible objective forms created by humans and their shared aspects of ideas, feelings, and behaviors, beliefs and etc. The dress and its ornaments are part of the culture that expresses the relationships in objective ways and in formless immaterial ways. The school uniform represents significant meanings to the students in their school years, and it is the way of expressing their individuality and full filling their needs for self-presentation. Therefore, understanding and analyzing youth culture means understanding students' school uniform along with fast changing twenty first century civilization. Korea and Japan are very close nations to each other. Both Korean and Japanese girls' school uniform style were adopted western clothing style and went through many changes based on cultural differences between two countries. They are affected by different peculiarities between two nations and youth cultures from different cities. Therefore, this research is on analyzing how different visual values of girl's high school uniforms in Seoul and Tokyo and understanding youth cultures through macro-analysis. The youth cultures in Korea and Japan are mostly similar but there is special development on animation in Japan and possibly can find many styles of girl's high school uniform. Both nations are varying to be opened to sexual culture of adolescents but Japan is more uninhibited than Korea. In Japan, sailor-uniform can be found in fetish way in public culture. On one hand, because of most private girl's high schools in Tokyo takes an entrance examination, top-ranking students are very proud of their school uniforms and even students from other public high schools get private high school uniforms to attend school festival. This analysis showed that private girl's high school uniform in Seoul appealed as slim fitted silhouette which is close to modem woman's suit style while in Tokyo appealed as boxy style matched with short pleated skirt or sailor-uniform style. Comparing that to school uniform photos taken on the street, we can find that alikeness or more extreme styles as examples. These are influenced by different youth cultures in Seoul and Tokyo and cultural differences stands for different aesthetic norm being accepted or rejected.

Aesthetic Rhinoplasty for the Improvement of the Lateral Facial Profile; Image-up Rhinoplasty (얼굴의 측면 윤곽선 개선을 위한 미용 코성형술)

  • Min Sung
    • Archives of Plastic Surgery
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    • v.32 no.2
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    • pp.205-213
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    • 2005
  • There are several characteristics of the nose of orientals. The dorsum of nose is flat and low, the skin is thick with severe tension, the nasal tip is bulbous, the nostril is wide, and the projection of the nose is limited due to a poorly developed alar cartilage with a short columella. In order to improve these untoward characteristics of the nose of Orientals aesthetically, plain augmentation of the dorsum and tip-plasty with conventional methods has been performed by many plastic surgeons. However these conventional rhinoplasty is not enough to obtain satisfactory results when transforming into a more beautiful and aesthetically charming appearance. In order to produce the optimal nasal shape and profile, it is extremely important to consider the aesthetic surgical factors, which are; the position of the nasion, the optimal nasolabial angle(95-100 degree in Orientals), the natural exposure of infra-tip lobule with and columella, the position of the tip defining point in harmony with the dorsal profile and the smooth and natural silhouette of the lateral nasal profile as it descends into the inferior portion of the nose. From April, 2003 to August, 2004, a total of 52 patients underwent open rhinoplasty, adhering to the strict aesthetic principles considered and described priorly. Surgical approach was done through a transcolumella incision and an alar rim incision. The nasal dorsum was augmented with a silicone implant and the shape of the columella and the nasolabial angle were finessed with a silicone strut implant which was placed in between the medial crurae in a manner of a non-visible graft. The nasal tip was corrected by alar cartilage suture technique and onlay graft of shield shaped Alloderm and Gore-Tex. Author obtained the optimal nasal shape and profile aesthetically, and the results, considered satisfactory in all patients without any complications, are as follows; 1. the average increase in nasal length was 2.5 mm, 2. the average decrease in nasal width was 2.1 mm, 3. the average increase in nasal tip projection was 3.2 mm, 4. the changes of nasolabial angles were from 85.5 degree to 94.7 degree, 5. the changes of the angle between the long axis of the external naris was from 101.3 degree to 89.5 degree. In conclusion, this surgical procedure is an effective, reliable and a valuable method in improving the nasal shape, tip projection, nasolabial angle and especially, the lateral facial profile of Orientals aesthetically.

A Study on the Manufacturing Process of Ladies' Jacket (숙녀복(淑女服) 재킷 제조공정(製造工程) 실태(實態) 연구(硏究))

  • Shim, Jae-Hee;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.43-52
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.

A Comparative Study of Tight Skirt Sewing Methods -Focusing on the Sewing Methods Shown in Reference Text Books on Clothing Configuration and used in Domestic Consumer Products- (타이트스커트 봉제방법에 관한 비교 연구 -의복구성 교재와 국내 브랜드 제품을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Sun-Young;Choi, Young-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.11
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    • pp.1510-1519
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    • 2007
  • This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.

A Study on Desirable Breast Type of Women in Their Twenties Based on the Ratio of Breast in Works of Art and Cup Design According to Breast Type (미술작품의 유방 실루엣 비율에 근거한 20대 여성의 바람직한 유방형태와 유형별 컵 설계에 관한 연구)

  • Sohn, Boo Hyun;Kweon, Soo Ae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.37 no.3
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    • pp.280-291
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    • 2013
  • This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.

THE INFLUENCING FACTORS OF $PERIOTEST^(R)$ VALUE AND IMPLANT STABILITY QUOTIENT ($Periotest^(R)$ Value와 Implant Stability Quotient에 영향을 미치는 요소)

  • Yi Young-Ah;Cha In-Ho;Lee Ho-Yong;Han Dong-Hoo
    • The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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    • v.44 no.1
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    • pp.40-50
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    • 2006
  • Statement of problem: $Periotest^(R)\;and\;Osstell^{TM}$ were known as the most objective and quantitative mobility tests available for evaluating stability of implant in vivo. Although a correlation between PTV widely used and ISQ recently introduced exist, a PTV was corresponded to various ISQ. A correct evaluation of implant stability could be obtained only after one has a thorough understanding of the limitations of devices and factors that affect measurements. Purpose: The purpose of this study was to investigate the causes of variables in the values obtained with these two tests. Material and method: A total of 333 implants 134 $Br{\aa}nemark$, 5 Silhouette and 194 ITI implants were investigated. Result: 1. There was a correlation between PTV and ISQ (Spearman correlation =0.39, p<0.0001) 2. The factors that affected ISQ were diameter of implant future, location of implant and implant system (submerged type vs non-submerged type). 3. The factors that affected W were dimeter of implant future, location of implant, and elapsed time after implant placement. 4. There was no significant difference between different surface treatments of RBM, smooth surface and ti-unite on PTY and ISQ. 5. In radiographic finding, no saucerization or bone resorption has been detected in implants with ISQ values that were above the average level of each PTV. These higher values had higher bone densities around the implant fixture. Saucerization was observed in the most impants with ISQ values that were below the average level of each PTV. Conclusion: There was a correlation between ISQ and PTV. However, each measuring methods had factors influencing the measured values. PTV were less sensitive to marginal bone resorption and influenced with the striking point on an implant to the level of bone. With ISQ, the height of implant from bone level to transducer should be considered.

Fashion Design of Denim Inspired by the Butterfly Motif -Based on the Concept of Naturalism- (나비 모티브를 응용한 데님 소재 패션디자인 -자연주의 개념을 바탕으로-)

  • Lee Young-Min;Lee Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.412-424
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    • 2006
  • This paper starts out with a review of the concepts of naturalism and natural clothes. Based on these concepts, the paper aims to create nature-friendly and high-value modem designs by grafting natural images from butterflies into human bodies. The images of butterflies are combined to show distinguished luxury and diversity with natural materials such as denim. As for the design technology, Adove Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, and Prima Vision Textile Design System are used since they are very popular in the CAD system. The followings are the main findings of our research. Naturalism displays its objectivity based on its inherent interest in human nature and its factual description in scientific approaches with an intention to find a true meaning of human life in nature. Natural clothes can be defined as the clothes of natural silhouette which are made of pure materials in natural colors and dyes from natural motifs such as animals, plants or natural phenomena. We have realized that the visually distinguished looks of butterflies are indeed far more luxurious than those of any other insects and this visual distinction can be utilized to attract the attention from designers. Lastly, it turns out that the digital printing technique can create more variety in colors and design forms than the manual printing, thereby providing designers with more options and practicality.

Characteristics of Ease in Men's Custom-fit Business Jackets (남성 맞춤 정장 재킷의 여유량을 결정짓는 요인들에 관한 연구)

  • Kang Yeosun;Choi Hei-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.28 no.12
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    • pp.1605-1616
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.