• Title, Summary, Keyword: Silhouette

Search Result 890, Processing Time 0.041 seconds

Analysis of Variations in Structural Components and Design Elements of Women's Jackets -A Focus on 2013 S/S~2017 F/W Milan Collections- (여성 재킷의 형태적 변화에 관한 분석 -2013년 S/S~2017년 F/W 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Hyo Sook;Kim, Ji Min
    • Journal of Fashion Business
    • /
    • v.23 no.1
    • /
    • pp.145-162
    • /
    • 2019
  • This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

Mentolabial angle and aesthetics: a quantitative investigation of idealized and normative values

  • Naini, Farhad B.;Cobourne, Martyn T.;Garagiola, Umberto;McDonald, Fraser;Wertheim, David
    • Maxillofacial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery
    • /
    • v.39
    • /
    • pp.4.1-4.7
    • /
    • 2017
  • Background: This study is a quantitative evaluation of the influence of the mentolabial angle on perceived attractiveness and threshold values of desire for surgery. Methods: The mentolabial angle of an idealized silhouette male Caucasian profile image was altered incrementally between $84^{\circ}$ and $162^{\circ}$. Images were rated on a Likert scale by pretreatment orthognathic patients (n = 75), lay people (n = 75) and clinicians (n = 35). Results: A mentolabial angle of approximately $107^{\circ}$ to $118^{\circ}$ was deemed the most attractive, with a range of up to $140^{\circ}$ deemed acceptable. Angles above or below this range were perceived as unattractive, and anything outside the range of below $98^{\circ}$ or above $162^{\circ}$ was deemed very unattractive. A deep mentolabial angle ($84^{\circ}$) or an almost flat angle ($162^{\circ}$) was deemed the least attractive. In terms of threshold values of desire for surgery, for all groups, a threshold value of ${\geq}162^{\circ}$ and ${\leq}84^{\circ}$ indicated a preference for surgery, although clinicians were least likely to suggest surgery. The clinician group was the most consistent, and for many of the images, there was some variation in agreement between clinicians and lay people as to whether surgery is required. There was even more variability in the assessments for the patient group. Conclusions: It is recommended that in orthognathic and genioplasty planning, the range of normal variability of the mentolabial angle, in terms of observer acceptance, is taken into account as well as threshold values of desire for surgery. The importance of using patients as observers in attractiveness research is stressed.

A Study on Research Paper Classification Using Keyword Clustering (키워드 군집화를 이용한 연구 논문 분류에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Yun-Soo;Pheaktra, They;Lee, JongHyuk;Gil, Joon-Min
    • KIPS Transactions on Software and Data Engineering
    • /
    • v.7 no.12
    • /
    • pp.477-484
    • /
    • 2018
  • Due to the advancement of computer and information technologies, numerous papers have been published. As new research fields continue to be created, users have a lot of trouble finding and categorizing their interesting papers. In order to alleviate users' this difficulty, this paper presents a method of grouping similar papers and clustering them. The presented method extracts primary keywords from the abstracts of each paper by using TF-IDF. Based on TF-IDF values extracted using K-means clustering algorithm, our method clusters papers to the ones that have similar contents. To demonstrate the practicality of the proposed method, we use paper data in FGCS journal as actual data. Based on these data, we derive the number of clusters using Elbow scheme and show clustering performance using Silhouette scheme.

A study on the design using characteristic the Joseon dynasty Dap-ho (조선시대 답호의 조형특성을 응용한 디자인 연구)

  • Yeom, Soon Jeong;Kim, Eun Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.21 no.1
    • /
    • pp.87-101
    • /
    • 2019
  • The sleeve is closely connected with activity in terms of costume. As a kind of overcoat, Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty is short-sleeved or sleeveless. Dap-ho, with simple sleeves is convenient for layering and taking off and since it is easily adjustable using a gusset, a slit, or coat string, and this can be applied to layered look-related designs. This study aims to suggest a design item, which sustains the existence of traditional costumes and facilitates diverse layered looks and co-ordination, using the formative elements of Dap-ho. For this study, theoretical backgrounds and relics of Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed, based on the previous studies, ancient literature, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and relics preserved in museums. The analysis targeted nine relics that show the birth and death years and the constructive changes in shapes, colors, materials of Dap-ho. Formative elements of Dap-ho were applied to the designing and the manufacturing of clothes for middle-aged women in their fifties and the research conclusions are as follows. First, from a morphological perspective, the silhouette, gusset, slit, and the indirectly attached coat string of Dap-ho are good to be used as various design items for covering the body shapes of middle-aged women, and the short-sleeved or sleeveless type is convenient to be layered. Second, when it comes to the material, it is possible to emphasize a traditional image and practicality at the same time by mixing and matching the Hanbok cloth and cotton. Third, in relation to the colors, the coexistence-based color arrangement method considering the theory of Yin and Yang can be applied to modern clothes and this makes it possible to express a traditional image in a harmonious way.

A Study on the Properties of Knit Jacquard Structure (니트 자카드 조직의 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Ki, Hee-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.17 no.4
    • /
    • pp.77-90
    • /
    • 2015
  • This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

  • PDF

A Study on the Gauge Types Comparative Analysis of Basic Jacquard Structure (기본 자카드 조직의 게이지 변화에 따른 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Ki, Hee-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.19 no.4
    • /
    • pp.1-15
    • /
    • 2017
  • The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

  • PDF

A Delphi Study the Appropriateness of Commercial Maternity Wear -Focusing on Designs Preferred during Pregnancy and Postpartum- (델파이 기법을 활용한 시판 마터니티웨어 디자인의 적합성 연구 -임신기 및 출산 후 선호하는 디자인을 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Yeonji;Nam, Youngran;Um, Sohee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
    • /
    • v.24 no.4
    • /
    • pp.1-18
    • /
    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to identify the design features appropriate for the altered physical characteristics of pregnant women and formulate the direction of future design and development of maternity wear. A Delphi research method based on a panel of experts and pregnant women was used and the survey was conducted to determine the suitability of maternity wear. The survey found that A-line silhouette outerwear with round necklines, with wide sleeves and snap-button fastening on the front with a formal and decent look was considered appropriate as maternity and postpartum wear. Shirts and blouses long enough to cover the hip area to complement women's curvy and full figures, especially around the bust, waist, and hip areas during the later stages of pregnancy were found to be appropriate. Calf-length pleated skirts were comfortable to wear during pregnancy due to the abundant freedom of movement and space offered by pleats. Ankle-length straight leg pants were rated appropriate in terms of comfort and style both during late stages of pregnancy and at work postpartum. Dresses decorated with pleats from the armholes all the way down to the knees were found to provide high levels of comfort at the abdomen, chest, and hips, and considered appropriate. Based on this study results, a follow-up study will be conducted to examine the design of maternity wear during pregnancy as well as at work after pregnancy.

Comparative analysis on design key-word of the four major international fashion collections - focus on 2018 fashion collection - (4대 해외 패션 컬렉션의 디자인 key-word 비교분석 - 2018년 패션 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Sae-Bom;Lee, Eun-Suk
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.21 no.3
    • /
    • pp.109-119
    • /
    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

Development of Fire Detection Algorithm for Video Incident Detection System of Double Deck Tunnel (복층터널 영상유고감지시스템의 화재 감지 알고리즘 개발)

  • Kim, Tae-Bok
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
    • /
    • v.23 no.9
    • /
    • pp.1082-1087
    • /
    • 2019
  • Video Incident Detection System is a detection system for the purpose of detection of an emergency in an unexpected situation such as a pedestrian in a tunnel, a falling object, a stationary vehicle, a reverse run, and a fire(smoke and flame). In recent years, the importance of the city center has been emphasized by the construction of underpasses in great depth underground space. Therefore, in order to apply Video Incident Detection System to a Double Deck Tunnel, it was developed to reflect the design characteristics of the Double Deck Tunnel. and In this paper especially, the fire detection technology, which is not it is difficult to apply to the Double Deck Tunnel environment because it is not supported on existing Video Incident Detection System or has a fail detect, we propose fire detection using color image analysis, silhouette spread, and statistical properties, It is verified through a real fire test in a double deck tunnel test bed environment.

Torso shape analysis of new senior women for the aged society (고령사회를 대비한 뉴 시니어 여성의 체간부 체형 분석)

  • Uh, Mi-Kyung;Kim, A-Young
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.21 no.2
    • /
    • pp.95-108
    • /
    • 2019
  • This study aims to determine the characteristics of new senior women's torso shapes. The data was collected from the 7th Size Korea, which analyzed 412 women between the ages of 55-69. A factor analysis was performed based on 20 indices, including eight based on circumference, eight based on height and length measurements, and four based on torso flattening. The results of the factor analysis suggest five main factors: torso silhouette, longitudinal size of the body, torso flattening rate, abdominal shape, and posterior longitudinal size. The results of the cluster analysis suggest three overall types: Type 1 is the inverted triangular obese shape which is characterized by large breasts, small buttocks, a short height, and a forward-bending posture; Type 2 is the rectangular, slim shape which is characterized by a forward neck and a flat front and back of the torso, and is the most slender among the three types; Type 3 is the large rectangular, overall obese shape, which is characterized by a round shape with large breasts, waist, and buttocks, and a forward-bending posture with a protruding back, and this is the most obese type. According to the results of the cross-tabulation, women aged 55-59 showed no trend in body shape; women aged 60-64 showed an increases in the inverted triangular obese shape and the large rectangular, overall obese shape; women aged 65-69 showed an increase in the large rectangular, overall obese shape and a decrease in the rectangular slim shape. In summary, new senior women showed body shape characteristics of being short, more obese having, a bent over posture. As they grew older, the curves disappeared, and the body becomes rounder. The study found that variation in body shape exists among new senior women in the aged society.