Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
This study considers types of design expression and examines aesthetic characteristics by analyzing images shown on clothes worn by Korean First Ladies. This study is to accumulate a fundamental database for the effective style coordination for images of First Ladies and future directions of clothing design. The types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, in terms of silhouette, H line and A line is generally represented on the silhouette of clothes; in addition, the H line is highly expressed on the silhouette. The keyword of images by design types are generally feminine, elegant on the silhouette of First Ladies' clothing, and represented a progressively more modernized image on the silhouette. Second, in terms of color, it is expressed diverse images on the color of First Ladies' clothing, and exceptionally the tendency of elegant image is highly charged on the color of clothes. This sort of tendency is influenced by the preferences of First Ladies; subsequently, most First Ladies wear their clothes with a high brightness and chroma. Third, in terms of materials, the image of elegant and simple is highly expressed through First Ladies' clothes and it is caused by choosing the clothes of a plain texture rather than a visible and fancy one. The aesthetic characteristics based on an analysis of the types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, 'femininity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed by A line silhouette of a feminine curve and decorative effects. Second, 'simplicity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed on the H line silhouette of a straight figure or through the solid colors of high chroma. Third, 'elegance' on First Ladies' clothes is represented on the silhouette of a restrained curve, long skirt hemlines, and woolen fabric with a neat, warm and soft coordination of colors. Forth, 'traditionality' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed through the application of materials and colors that influence culture, traditions, and detailed decorativeness.
Silhouette Animation has been recognized as a genre of animation since the very beginning of the animation history, and also Its segmental movement and Aesthetic expression has led a variety of semantic interpretations. Especially the French animation director, Michel Ocelot, recently integrated 3-dimensional digital to the silhouettes animation, and it extended the possibility of the silhouettes animation in many aspects. In his latest animation feature, , he showed how he made changes in 3-dimension by creating and evolving his own way and style of silhouette animation. Although mainstream digital animations preferably to show realistic images and motion, Michel Ocelot used very selective movement, subjective digital colors and extended space which couldn't be expressed in the way of creating traditional style of silhouette animation. This alternative slow movement and the unique aesthetics in 3-dimension emphasize the unconscious elements of color, composition, patterns, and it provides digitally enhanced images and pictorial impression. In addition, the acquisition of digital three-dimensional use of space made possible to provides the wider formative imagination to the audience. In this paper, we analyzed aesthetic characteristics of the digital silhouette animation, (2011), specially focusing on the aspects of Movement, Image, Space, which could not be found in the traditional silhouette animation. It is significant to obtain diversity of the future digital animation and its positive development. In addition, this provides opportunity to explore Michel Ocelot's new experiments and animation philosophy.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.
The purpose of this study was to identify a basic meaning of humor from the costume expressing cartoon image, to grasp the status of contemporary costume, and also to supply people with a database related to the sphere of costume design. This was done by analyzing and examining humor of the costume expressing cartoon image in post-industrial society. Consequently, the result of this study was summarized as follows; First, humor by parody of Pop Art is recognized as humorous expression that repulsed the main current culture and post-industrial society phenomenon. Second, humor by quotation tends to appear through cartoon character. Costume which quote cartoon character is against Kidult tastes and the pre-existing authoritative prejudices in post-industrial society. Third, humor by bricolage, making bricolage with silhouette, color, pattern item, is recognized as new creation of humor In other words, it is regarded as enlargement of new esthetic consciousness and humor about instrumented gender in post-industrial society. Lastly, humor by deformation expressed itself in deformation of body image of character and cloth silhouette by cartoon image. Deformation of cloth silhouette by cartoon image, being not conscious pre-existing concept of harmony of human and costume, is recognized as humor which have characteristic of play with introduction of new silhouette. In addition to, the result of this study showed that humor expressed in cartoon image of costume has been limited to the works of few designers because of characteristics of fashion designers who made use of popularity as subjects of the works and internal meanings which were related to the characteristics of post-industrial society.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
This study was designed to examine the aesthetic characteristics of traditional wedding dress in Japan based on the internal$.$external aesthetics. They were extruded external and internal aesthetics based on pattern, color and fitting. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Decorative characteristics in external aesthetics extracted into three factors; fantasticism, movement, amusement. The fantasticism was based on the omitted pattern, painting gold. The movement was presented through irregular composition, fitting method, and silhouette. The amusement was expressed through the composition focus on a near view and pattern reminded of bring up the image. Fitting characteristics in external aesthetics extracted into four factors; grace, cubic effect, optical illusion, and tradition. The pace was expressed through the weight, formativeness, and layered look The cubic effect was presented through spacing of belt and H-line silhouette. The optical illusion was based on the straight line of seam, V-pleats and straight silhouette of fitting, and high-waisted belt. The tradition expressed through the unchanged form since Heian-dynasty. Internal aesthetics were characterized by the naturalism and the moderation. The naturalism was presented through the natural pattern which based on subjective feeling, indignity and position of wearing man, and color based on taste. The necessaries, or pressed artificial moderation, were expressed through the clothing silhouette by simplicity.
The purpose of this study was to find out differences of visual evaluation according to perceiver's gender, clothing silhouette, and body exposure of the lingerie look. Subjects were 246 college males and females in Seoul. The visual evaluation of the lingerie look was divided into four image dimensions: elegance, individuality, fascination, and activity. Silhouette had significant influences on the perception of elegance and activity. The hourglass silhouettes were evaluated more elegant and active than the tubular silhouettes. The body exposure had significant influences on the evaluation of elegance, individuality, fascination, and activity. The shoulder and the back exposure were estimated high in fascination, the breast exposure low in elegance, and the waist exposure high in individuality and activity. Individuality, fascination, and activity had interaction effects by perceiver's gender and body exposure. Males estimated the waist exposure to be more fascinating than females, and females estimated the breast exposure to be less active than males. There were significant interaction effects in evaluating the 4 image dimensions according to the silhouette and body exposure. The shoulder and the leg exposure of the hourglass silhouettes were estimated more elegant than those of the tubular silhouettes. Dimensions of clothing image which influenced on preference of lingerie look were different between males and females.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
The purpose of this study was to classify the modern image by clothing design elements. This research was done by survey method with 25 kinds of modern image photos selected in fashion magazines. The data was analyzed by Reliability Analysis, Factor Analysis, MANOVA, One-Way ANOVA, Duncan's test and MDS. The results of this study are as follows: 1. modern image was classified by 5 factors. Those were sexy-modern, elegant-modern, natural-modern, mannish-modern and minimal-modern images. 2. Sexy-modern image was well-expressed by chromatic and chromatic color coordinations. Elegant-modern image was well-expressed by fitted silhouette, fit and achromatic and chromatic color coordinations. Natural-modern image was well-expressed by A silhouette, loose apparel-fit, chromatic and chromatic coordinations and soft texture. Mannish-modern image was well-expressed by H silhouette, loose apparel-fit, chromatic and chromatic color coordinations and hard texture. Minimal-modern image was well-expressed by H silhouette, tight or loose apparel-fit and soft texture. 3. modern image was positioned into mostly hard or masculine on image scale.
This study examined similarity between white porcelain models and dress silhouette of women painted in genre painting in late Joseon period, and found that gourd bottles that are one of main porcelain styles are very similar with dress silhouette of women presented in genre painting in Joseon period; that is, bottle necks of gourd bottles and women's waist, voluminous bottles and erotically full hips, the length of skirts which showed underwear dress and height of porcelain's bottom, waist panel winding slim waist and wide edge of porcelain's mouth. As images are personal mental process of potters who were not socially controlled, they used dress as an indirect means of women's bodies for the subjects of images that are obtained through direct and indirect experiences of the persons who perceive. It indicates that they intended to make their ceramic works express women's dressing style through images of porcelain's models. Such images were sensual, but not superficial. It is suggested that they were influenced by the society which considered ethical experimental mind and practicality of the governing class of that time who enjoyed it metaphorically, but not impudent.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
This study investigates the analysis on the acceptance of Foreign Fashion trends in Korean Fashion Collection by collections, years, season, and designers. The purpose of this study is Korean collection's degree to adopt and receive foreign collections, by comparative analysis of design features between Seoul and foreign collections. For such purpose, from 2006 S/S to 2011 F/W, 5185 pictures were collected from designer's photos of Seoul, Paris, Milan, NY, and London collections. The content analysis and statistical analysis using SPSS will be conducted for data analysis. The results of the research are as follows. First, regarding the design features, square-form silhouette, achromatic colors, and none pattern were presented as well. Second, there were significant differences in the design characteristics of each year. Particularly, in 2008, X-form silhouette, Yellow and Green color, and flower pattern were emphasized. Third, the design features by season were significant differences. In S/S season, square-form and X-form silhouette, achromatic colors of white and gray color, none pattern were evident while in F/W season, square-form Silhouette, achromatic colors of black and gray, and none pattern were emphasized. Fourth, the design features by designer are as follows. In terms of form, Seoul collection was influenced by Paris collection. In terms of colors, it was influenced by NY and London collections.
This is on the dance costume of ancient Greece. The present study classified the characteristics of Greek dance and dance costume according to the silhouette, quality of material, color and ornaments. Materials of the study are the pictures and figures presented in literatures, sculptures, crockeries, murals, coins. The dances of Greece can be classified into religious dance, educational dance, recreational dance, dramatic dance and various forms of dance on each dances were developed. Especially, it is the greatest character that Greeks gave dances educational value and created composit art including song, lines and dance. As dance costume, Himation, Chiton, Chlamys which Greeks generally wore were widely worn. Also, the beauty of dance costume was maximized by the changes of basic costumes and development of various ways of wearing. Especially, professional dancers wore costumes shorter than knee-length ones forming a A-line silhouette different from a cylindrical one. Thin cloth revealing body silhouette such as fiax hemp, linen, silk were used as materials of dance costumes. As for colors, white was mainly used, But orange, blue and green were used, too. They wore band, scarf, bonnet on the head and seldom used any ornaments except for fibula. They wore the same sandals which Greeks wore, Crepis, front-heeled shoes which is thought to be the origin of modern ballet shoes for the technique of toe in dance. As mentioned above, as the dance costume of Greece were mainly worn as the similar forms of the dance costume of Greeks, various forms of costumes were worn with the development of dance and bold ways of wearing and silhouette were developed unlike the costume of common people.
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