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A Study on Insaenggeukjang and Junggangeug in the 1930's (1930년대 극단 '인생극장(人生劇場)'과 '중간극'의 의미)

  • Kim, Namseok
    • Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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    • no.49
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    • pp.101-131
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    • 2013
  • This paper reviews the Insaenggeukjang's history and Insaenggeukjang's play. This paper has been written with a purpose to understand and to examine the members(actors and actresses), the structure, the plays, the performing works, the change process, and the meaning of Insaenggeukjang(life theater) and junggangeug(middle-theater) in 1930s. Insaenggeukjang is Korean theater for the drama in the second half of 1930s. In particular, Insaenggeukjang is a theatrical troupe that led Korean theatrical troupes in 1937 to 1938. This paper intend to examine Insaenggeukjang's history, activity, feature and works. I study Insaenggeukjang and performing works contained in the newspapers and the magazines in 1920-30s, and conference papers and theater-art books published recently.

A Study of the Commercial Function and Characteristic of Fashion Illustration - a domestic research - (패션 일러스트레이션의 상업적 기능과 특성에 관한 연구 - 국내를 중심으로 -)

  • 성광숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.7
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    • pp.165-179
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    • 2000
  • This research centers on studying the function and characteristic of fashion illustration for advertisement and publication which is, among plenty of fashion illustration's functions, the commercial one. Here are some purposes of the research. First, it presents the function of fashion illustration. Second, under the contemporary circumstance of specialization and subdivision. It givers people the better understanding of fashion illustration by providing a variety of its classification bases other than the typical, simple grouping of style drawing and fashion illustration. Third, this research helps fashion illustration establish itself as commercial art by showing how fashion illustration is utilized in the field as a part of the fashion industry. The methods and contents of the research are described that the concept of fashion illustration, characteristic, classification bases and commercial function are presented and than the data of fashion illustration which hale been used as goods since 1990 in the nation are selected in order to analyze the media for the application of fashion illustration. its expression methods, factors and images. By doing so, advertising fashion illustration are much less than those of published fashion illustration and even most cases of advertising fashion illustration are related just to poster advertisement such as magazines, fashion events or public subscription. The published fashion illustration isn't also attracting the public since it focuses on fashion information books, fashion magazines or fashion -clothing books. Another finding is that the expression style of fashion illustration is not various or distinctive. The expression remains in the trends of painting, figurative drawing, sometimes adopts post-modernism which is reflected in popular cartoon and figures exaggerates or simplifies the human body. The image of fashion illustration is simple. casual or feminine in the rough. For the development of commercial fashion illustration, it is required to produce fashion illustrators, not works but goody, with various concepts appealing to the public.

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Research on the Saekdong in the late 20th Century on the magazines (20세기 후반(1955-1995) 인쇄매체에 나타난 색동에 대한 연구)

  • Kim, Yeo-Kyung;Kim, Jeong-Min;Hong, Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.6
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    • pp.154-164
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.

The Ideal Image and Fashion of the 'New Woman' in Korea in the 1920s and 1930s (1920-30년대 한국의 이상적 '신여성' 이미지와 패션)

  • Yi, Jaeyoon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.7
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    • pp.172-183
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    • 2014
  • The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

A Study of Hip-hop Fashion Trends -Focusing on the Trends Since 2000- (힙합 패션 트렌드에 관한 연구 -2000년대 이후 트렌드를 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Yoon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

Features of Goth Style Represented in the Fashion of Korea (국내 패션에 나타난 고스 스타일 특성)

  • An, Hyun-Joo
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.626-639
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    • 2009
  • As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

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Transnational Reception of Korean Film: Analyses of Film Reviews (한국영화의 초국가적 수용: 영화리뷰를 중심으로)

  • Chung, Soh-young;Nho, Yunchae
    • Cross-Cultural Studies
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    • v.26
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    • pp.405-444
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    • 2012
  • This paper is based on the view that film should be conceived as a form of cultural practice whose meaning is always in the process of being produced within diverse socio-cultural contexts and aims to examine the ways in which the meaning of Korean film is (re)mediated or received in diverse cultural contexts outside the country. In this paper, we employ two theoretical grounds. Firstly, it positions itself in line with the audience studies within the field of cultural studies where the audience is conceived as active agents who produce the meaning of a popular culture text. The recruitment of the theoretical propositions from the audience studies enables recognition of the significance of the reception in film practice which recently seems to be oriented on production and distribution. Secondly, we conceive transnationality of film as that which is being produced in the process of transaction between the film and the audience, that is to say, transnationality is a form of discourse that emerges upon cultural interaction. The empirical work involves examination of a set of reviews of four films--Chihwaseon, Oldboy, Thirt, Poety--that have been published in daily newspapers and some popular film magazines in the U. S., the U. K. and France. Through the analysis of the film reviews, we identify four interpretive schemes or rather discourses recruited via which the Korean films are approached and understood: auteurism, formalism, universal themes, emotional response. We propose that these four kinds of discourse provide a common ground for the audience from different cultural backgrounds to understand Korean film. Furthermore, we also suggest that transnationality of Korean cinema needs to be reconsidered in terms of the reception as the audience from different socio-cultural backgrounds should be understood as active agents who are capable of engaging in Korean cultural texts such as film in their own way producing various meanings and these are also constituent of the meaning of the cultural texts.

Characteristics of National Races' Costumes in Chinese Contemporary Costumes (중국 현대 복식에 나타난 소수 민족 복식의 특징)

  • Wu, Zhuo;Lee, Hyo-Jin
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.14 no.6
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    • pp.956-970
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    • 2006
  • The purposes of this study was to analyze the characteristics of national races' costumes in Chinese contemporary costumes. For the purpose, this researcher concentrated on the relations between national races' costumes and Chinese contemporary costumes and discuss systematically depending on references such as fashion magazines, picture albums, and historical records. The results of study were as follows: First, the formation of fashion has been influenced by Man, Uighur, and Choson races. For example, Qipao, the tight style of Man race's fashion, Uighur race's bell style sleeve and cyclic skirt are applied to women's modern fashion. Second, weaving, printing, and embroidery technique of a minority race developed more than Han race, so applied still. Recently, Chinese contemporary costumes accepted the weaving technique of Miao and Uighur race through publicizing of a minority culture. Third, a national race's costumes are famous with splendid design and applied to modern fashion directly. They are commonly made to hair pin, necklace, earing, bracelet and so on. Recently, styles from a national race's costumes and old style are becoming popular to Chinese and it's easier to found such a fashion in market.

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Diffusion and Imitation of American Trendy Casual Style in Korea - Focusing on the Styles of American Celebrities- (아메리칸 트렌디 캐주얼 스타일의 국내 확산과 모방현상 -미국 연예인들의 스타일을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Chan-Ju;Ro, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.2
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    • pp.128-142
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    • 2009
  • American trendy casual style can be characterized as fitted to body and rendering sexy and fashionable images and now very popular in Korea. This paper aims to identify how American trendy casual styles have been introduced and diffused among Korean young people and also compare the similarities and differences between American and Korean styles. American trendy casual style was introduced and diffused through 4 channels: people who have living experiences in America, media exposure by American films, TV dramas and fashion magazines, on-line network using internet cafe, club and blog, use of on-line shopping mall speciallized for purchasing American apparel brands. Some of American celebrities became fashion ikons and played critical roles in diffusing American trendy styles. Photos of those American celebrities and street fashion of Korean young women were collected through internet search from Sep. 2006 to Aug. 2007. 6 styles including leggings, mini skirt, short dress, skim jeans, pants with long boots, big bag and long necklace were selected as representing American trendy casual styles. Silhouettes and overall styling were very similar in all 6 items. But Differences were found in terms of rotor, amount of details, item coordination, matching shoes and overall images.

A Study on the Change of Fashion Model's Image with the Changes of the Times (시대에 따른 패션모델의 이미지 변화에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Myung-Hee;Kim, Sun-Hwa
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.4
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    • pp.735-747
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    • 2008
  • This study was about the fashion model's images during the periods of time. Also, this was to know the model's role and fields they had worked in and to investigate the specializing courses to get advice from their diversities, specialties and activities. The method of the study was used the qualitative analysis from the relative books, theses from university graduates, the related society newsletters, fashion magazines that were printed periodical/non-periodical, and others. As a result, the glamourous image was the most famous in the twenties and thirties, and the elegant image mainly in the forties and fifths. The images were more diverse in the nineties through the girlish images of the sixties, and the sexy image with good health of the seventies and eighties. Baby faces became the ideal of models in the new century. The images of the models become popular and disappear rapidly due to the change of major trend with the change of the society's environment. Under the situation, they must take good care of their images and self-control themselves to keep a positive view of fashion models to the public, and they must have ambition as a fashion icon and make their own exclusive fields in various parts.

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