• Title, Summary, Keyword: Parthian Style

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A Study on the Costume Style on the Rock Reliefs of Ardashir I in Early Sassanian Persia (사산조 초기 아르다시르 1세 부조에 묘사된 복식 연구)

  • YiChang, Young-Soo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.6
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    • pp.877-887
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of Sassanian dynasty was to succeed the civilization of Achaemenid dynasty but it shows vestiges of Parthian civilization in many ways. This study is an attempt to take a look at Sassanian civilization through analyzing these rock reliefs since these features are shown on the rock relief of Ardashir I in early Sassanian Iran. The way carried out this study was first, to collect and search documentary data to establish the theoretical background, and collect positive data by exploring this region and then we comparatively analyzed the two data in general and the result is the following: The form of costume is different according to the person's status. In the early period of Ardashir I the costume style of the royals is reflected by clothes such as tunic, trousers in parthian style. However, trousers do not have vertical pleats which are commonly shown in the case of parthian trousers. It assumed that after the early period of Ardashir I, Sassanians formed their own styles. The form of cap is also different according to the person's status. Ardashir I and the Ahura mazda god put on crown and Korymbos which symbolized the sovereign power. Except the king and the god, the prince and the king's vassal put on high caps called Kolah. Diadem which symbolized sovereign power of king was used by the king, the god and the crown prince. There are two kinds of diadem. The first form has vertical pleats and the other does not have pleats. This form became different depending on the social position. The form of hairstyle is generally thick curly hair which goes down until the shoulder. There is no difference in their hairstyle in terms of the social position. The beard style is generally in the form of scoop. There is also no difference in terms of the person's status.

A Study on Men's Costumes of the Parthian Period in Persia (페르시아 파르티아[Parthia]왕조 남자복식 연구)

  • YiChang Young-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.4
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    • pp.65-81
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    • 2006
  • This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

A Study on the Foreign Details of the Kushan Costume - Focusing Analysis of Antiquities - (쿠샨 왕조 복식에 나타난 외부적인 요소 - 유물분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Chang, Youngsoo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.10-21
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    • 2018
  • Kushan dynasty was located in the middle of Silkroad, from the 1st century BC to the second century AD, where it negotiated with various races. Therefore, the culture of the Kushan has multi cultural elements. The purpose of this study is to understand the life of the ancient Silkroad by accessing this characteristic culture of the Kushan through costume analysis. And the results of this study will be used as a basic data for studying the relationship between Korean ancient costumes and Silkroad costume type. As a research method, literature survey and artifacts analysis were performed in parallel. The results of this study are as follows: The basic type of the Kushan costume was a typical nomadic ethnic type with a long tunic and trousers. Tunic was fastened with a belt and straps at the waist, and the lower part of the belt was wider like a skirt. The tunic was divided into two types: open front and closed front. Because Kushan was originally a nomadic people who lived in Central Asia, the nomadic elements of Central Asia remained unchanged in the early costumes of the Kushan, but over time the details of the costumes changed according to the surrounding political situation. When Kushan negotiated with Parthia, the parthian coat was worn by the influence of them. After occupying Greco Bactria, accepting the Greek culture of Bactria, Kushan's costume was supplemented by the external costume element of drapery, which changed the style of the nomadic costume into a elegant style.