• Title, Summary, Keyword: Apparel form

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A Product and Sizing System Investigation of Domestic and Foreign Dress form for Development of Senior Men's Dress form (시니어 남성용 드레스폼 개발을 위한 국내외 시판 드레스폼의 제품 및 치수체계 조사)

  • Do, Wolhee;Choi, Eunhee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.18 no.5
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    • pp.708-715
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    • 2016
  • This study researched the sizing system of dress form for apparel manufacturing in the domestic market. It aims to be used as basic data for the development of a dress form that could be used by manufacturers of senior men's clothing. Research focused on the sizes presented on the homepages of 17 dress form manufacturers in the USA, France, Japan, and Korea. Body measurement was made for senior men in their 50's over men (n=134). Six items were measured by the 'Standard body measurement of Size Korea'. The type of dress form in the domestic market can be classified into half-body type (upper body type and lower body type), torso, and whole-body type; in addition, each type is divided into upper arm, arm, crotch, and thigh. Korean dress form manufacturers produced/sold diverse kinds (size 7-9) for women; however, they used large/small sizes or product sizes for men without defining sizes. The chest size (93-105cm) has not been standardized while the rates of waist circumference, hip circumference and shoulder length (in accordance with the chest size) were all different. Global dress form brands manufactured reflecting body dimensions by the state organization USA ASTM. Japan JIS. For this reason, most domestic clothing businesses depend on imported dress forms. Especially, there were no dress forms for senior men. With the growing market for seniors, it would be necessary to produce senior dress forms for clothing production that reflect the body shapes and sizes of seniors.

A Comparative of the Different between Virtual Fashion 3D Avatar and Size Korea of Adult Women's Body Shapes (성인여성 버추얼 패션 3D 아바타와 Size Korea 인체형상의 형태 차이 비교)

  • Lee, Ye-Ri;Jang, Jeong-Ah
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.87-93
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    • 2020
  • This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.

A Visual-perceptive Study on Closed and Open Forms of Ethnic Looks since the 1980s (1990년대 이후 에스닉 룩의 폐쇄형과 개방형의 시지각적 연구)

  • 서봉하
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.4
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    • pp.145-156
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    • 2004
  • This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.

Development of Elderly Women's Dress Form According to Their Somatotypes for the Silver Apparel Industry

  • Suh, Chu-Yeon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.25-38
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.

A Study on Baseline Taping for Dress Form (의복 생산용 바디의 기준선 설정에 관한 연구)

  • Jung, Kyung-Won;Nam, Yun-Ja;Lee, Jeong-Yim
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.445-454
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    • 2008
  • The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

A Study on the Real Somatotype and the Recognized Somatotype of Middle Ages Women (중년 여성의 실제 체형과 이상적 체형에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Young-A;Lee, Sang-Eun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this research is to lay the foundation that middle aged woman takes care of more healthy, beautiful, attractive external features and prepares successful ageing on studying a difference of recognition between an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype after we examine an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype in the object of about $40{\sim}50$ middle-aged woman, dwells in Seoul, is the main group of a home consumption socially. The result of comparing a difference between an actual somatotype and an ideal somatotype was showing that in case of a facial form, the group which their faces are an egg-shaped prefers an egg-shaped and the group which their faces are a round-shaped prefers a round-shaped. In case of a silhouette, all groups prefers a normal type most. In case of a shoulder's type, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a shoulder-waist line, all groups prefers a Y line most. In case of a breast's form, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a back's form, all groups prefer a normal type most. In case of a buttocks' form, all groups prefers a normal type most. In case of a leg's form, all groups prefers a normal type most. On putting together research result as yet, middle aged women wish a similar somatotype irrespective of an age, an obesity measurement and this means a recognition of making an effort to be beautiful is alike. Therefore, it is necessary to recognize a somatotype of middle aged women uprightly and it must be accomplished a continuous, systematic consultation and education about a weight-control on exercising and not to mention of making a desirable eating habit.

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A study of making a dress form for women using a 3D printer (3D 프린터를 이용한 여성용 인대 제작 연구)

  • Oh, Seol Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.24 no.6
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    • pp.725-742
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    • 2016
  • In the Korean fashion industry, 3D printing systems are considered as new technology and a new opportunity. With 3D printers, consumers can be manufacturers and individuals can develop businesses with little upfront capital. In this study, a dress form for the typical Korean women's body shape was developed using 3D technology (3D scanning, 3D modeling, and 3D printing). Ten women with apparel sizes 85-91-160 were selected from 3D body-scan data collected by SizeKorea of 201 women aged 25 to 34 (2010). First, 15 horizontal cross-sections were collected from the 3D scan data of the 10 subjects. Then, inside lines of those cross-sections were drawn at 15-degree intervals, and the lengths were measured. The average of the inside lines was connected to the internal spline curve, and the curves were used as the average cross-sections. The average torso body and the dress form of Korean women were developed into a 3D solid model using a 3D CAD program (Solidworks 2012). An output mockup was printed by the FDM type's 3D printing system (Bonbot 1200, Bonbot 3-H4) using PLA material. The dimensions comparing the 3D solid modeling to the 3D printed mockup of the dress form were measured, and minor differences were between 0.00cm and 0.40cm. In the future, 3D printing systems are expected to be in use for various personalized dress forms.

Business Application of Convolutional Neural Networks for Apparel Classification Using Runway Image (합성곱 신경망의 비지니스 응용: 런웨이 이미지를 사용한 의류 분류를 중심으로)

  • Seo, Yian;Shin, Kyung-shik
    • Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2018
  • Large amount of data is now available for research and business sectors to extract knowledge from it. This data can be in the form of unstructured data such as audio, text, and image data and can be analyzed by deep learning methodology. Deep learning is now widely used for various estimation, classification, and prediction problems. Especially, fashion business adopts deep learning techniques for apparel recognition, apparel search and retrieval engine, and automatic product recommendation. The core model of these applications is the image classification using Convolutional Neural Networks (CNN). CNN is made up of neurons which learn parameters such as weights while inputs come through and reach outputs. CNN has layer structure which is best suited for image classification as it is comprised of convolutional layer for generating feature maps, pooling layer for reducing the dimensionality of feature maps, and fully-connected layer for classifying the extracted features. However, most of the classification models have been trained using online product image, which is taken under controlled situation such as apparel image itself or professional model wearing apparel. This image may not be an effective way to train the classification model considering the situation when one might want to classify street fashion image or walking image, which is taken in uncontrolled situation and involves people's movement and unexpected pose. Therefore, we propose to train the model with runway apparel image dataset which captures mobility. This will allow the classification model to be trained with far more variable data and enhance the adaptation with diverse query image. To achieve both convergence and generalization of the model, we apply Transfer Learning on our training network. As Transfer Learning in CNN is composed of pre-training and fine-tuning stages, we divide the training step into two. First, we pre-train our architecture with large-scale dataset, ImageNet dataset, which consists of 1.2 million images with 1000 categories including animals, plants, activities, materials, instrumentations, scenes, and foods. We use GoogLeNet for our main architecture as it has achieved great accuracy with efficiency in ImageNet Large Scale Visual Recognition Challenge (ILSVRC). Second, we fine-tune the network with our own runway image dataset. For the runway image dataset, we could not find any previously and publicly made dataset, so we collect the dataset from Google Image Search attaining 2426 images of 32 major fashion brands including Anna Molinari, Balenciaga, Balmain, Brioni, Burberry, Celine, Chanel, Chloe, Christian Dior, Cividini, Dolce and Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Ermenegildo, Fendi, Giuliana Teso, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Leonard, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Max Mara, Missoni, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Versace, and Yve Saint Laurent. We perform 10-folded experiments to consider the random generation of training data, and our proposed model has achieved accuracy of 67.2% on final test. Our research suggests several advantages over previous related studies as to our best knowledge, there haven't been any previous studies which trained the network for apparel image classification based on runway image dataset. We suggest the idea of training model with image capturing all the possible postures, which is denoted as mobility, by using our own runway apparel image dataset. Moreover, by applying Transfer Learning and using checkpoint and parameters provided by Tensorflow Slim, we could save time spent on training the classification model as taking 6 minutes per experiment to train the classifier. This model can be used in many business applications where the query image can be runway image, product image, or street fashion image. To be specific, runway query image can be used for mobile application service during fashion week to facilitate brand search, street style query image can be classified during fashion editorial task to classify and label the brand or style, and website query image can be processed by e-commerce multi-complex service providing item information or recommending similar item.

Classification of Upper Torso Somatotype for the Construction of Middle-Aged Women's Clothing (중년여성의 의복구성을 위한 상반신 체형분류)

  • 김혜경;김순자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.1027-1039
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    • 1995
  • Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better cress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle aged women's upper torso for dress form designers and pattern makers by classifying the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view, and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance. Factor analysis was used to 23 items from photometric measurment and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Through cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 3 somatotypes were categorized from th lateral view 1) Type I was straight somatotype in which the plumb line passes throught the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joing and the mid abdominal region laterally. This type of woman was slender and shorter than average. 2) Type II was bending somatotype in which the upper portion of upper torso is bent forward. This type of woman was taller and fatter than average. 3) Type III was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back is bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had characteristic of turning over somatotype. This type of woman had storter length on the front and longer lenght on the back, slender type and flat chest.

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A Study of the Aesthetic Sense of Hanbok and Kimono by Analyzing Korean and Japanese Ink Painting Style (한국, 일본 수묵화 양식 분석을 통한 한복과 기모노의 미의식 연구)

  • Shim, Sangbo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.5
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    • pp.82-98
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    • 2016
  • Korea and Japan have a cultural homogeneity because they were affected by China. However, each country has developed its own original culture due to their own national characteristic and endemism, In traditional clothing, though Korea and Japan share the same origin, they have developed their own form, Hanbok and Kimono, which have completely different looks. The differences in the traditional clothing is the result of the differences in each country's aesthetic sense, which is reflects in the artwork of those days. Ink-and-wash painting was the typical painting form in East Asia, so Korean and Japanese ink-and-wash painting from that period can be used to observe the differences in the aesthetic sense. This study aims to search for commonly shared aesthetic sense in the design process of Hanbok and Kimono by analyzing the styles of a representative Korean painting, "Sehando(Wintry Days)" and a representative Japanese painting, "Pine Trees Screen". H. Wolfflin's methodology influenced not only painting, but also architecture and sculpture. Therefore, this theory can be applied to clothing, which can be considered a type of sculpture. Modernization of traditional clothing has to start by analyzing the aesthetic sense of artisans that have affected the design of traditional clothing. To spread Hanbok globally and differentiate it from Japanese clothing, we have to acknowledge the differences between Korean and Japanese aesthetic sense, and based on this, we have to develop the design of Hanbok.