• Title, Summary, Keyword: Apparel form

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North Korea, Apparel Production Networks and UN Sanctions: Resilience through Informality (북한 의류 생산네트워크와 UN 제재)

  • Lee, Jong-Woon;Gray, Kevin
    • Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.373-394
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    • 2020
  • The strengthening of multilateral international sanctions against North Korea has raised questions as to how effective they are in exerting pressure on the country's economy. In this paper, we address this question by examining their impact on the country's integration into regional and global apparel production networks. North Korea has in the past decade become an increasingly competitive exporter of apparel on the basis of consignment-based processing arrangements. Official trade data shows a sharp drop in North Korean exports of clothing since the sectoral ban in 2017. There is evidence to suggest, however, that exports have continued on a more informal and clandestine basis. North Korea's integration into apparel production networks has also taken the form of the dispatch of workers to factories in China's northeastern border regions. Yet there is evidence that the recent sanctions imposed on such practices has similarly led to illicit practices such as working on visitors' visas, often with the help of Chinese enterprises and local government. The resilience of North Korea's integration into apparel production networks follows a capitalist logic and is result of the highly profitable nature of apparel production for all actors concerned and a correspondingly strong desire to evade sanctions. As such, the analysis contributes to the literature on sanctions that suggests that the measures may contribute to emergence of growing informal and illicit practices and to the role of the clandestine economy.

Development of Dress Form for the Construction of Middle-aged Women's Clothing (중년여성 체형특성에 따른 인대모형설계)

  • 김순자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.430-441
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    • 1997
  • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, No. 2 (1997) p. 430∼441 Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better dress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's somatotypes for dress form designers by classifying the torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. The subjects were directly measured anthropometrically and indirectly analyzed photo- graphically. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and analysis of variance. On the basis of the cluster analysis, using 7 factors cores the subjects were classified into four groups and four dress forms for middle-aged women were constructed. 8y the analysis of moire topography of proposed dress forms that were constructed according to the characteristics and silhouettes of front and lateral views for each somatotype of subjects, three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype and overlapped crosssection diagrams were analyzed.

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A Study on the Modernism and Post-modernism Expressed in Fashion - Focused on 1980~90 American Vogue - (패션에 나타난 모더니즘과 포스트모더니즘 연구(硏究) - 1980~90년대(年代) 미국(美國) Vogue지(誌)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Myung-Hee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.147-158
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    • 1999
  • The Purpose of this study is to comprehend the form of Post-modernism in 1980~90 Fashion by comparing to the representative form of Modernism. For empirical data, photographs and critics about fashion were collected from Vogue fashion magazine to differentiate from other studies which is mostly analysed from collection. The results are as follows: The Modernism in fashion can be epitomized simple and functional form as a rational costume and Post-modern fashion expresses all sorts of emotion as a react of rational theme of modernism with manners of anti-formal pluralism such as pastiche, parody and Kitsch. The fashion in 1980-90s in Vogue expressed as follow :1) The Postmodernism is well exploited around 1990 and costrained by traditional and classical Mode. 2) The other main character of Postmodernism, romantic eroticism is broadly expressed with material and slim curved body conscious line. 3) The Modernism and Postmodernism coexisted in the end of 1990, in more matured format.

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A Study on the Actual Conditions of and Satisfaction with the Existed Female Dress Forms Usage (국내 여성용 인대 사용 실태 및 만족도에 관한 연구)

  • Park Gin-Ah;Lee Hye-Young;Choi Jin-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.378-385
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    • 2006
  • To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.

A Study on the Formative Character of Cinema Costume from the Theoretical Perspectives of Wölfflin and Delong (Wölfflin과 Delong 이론을 통해 고찰한 영화의상의 형태적 특성 연구)

  • Yun, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.7
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    • pp.1140-1151
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    • 2009
  • This study researches the formative character of 1920's fashion through cinema costumes from the perspective of the theories of W$\"{o}$lfilin and Delong. This study organizes a new perspective such as closed form & open form, part recognition & whole recognition, and flat & rounded to analyze the characteristics of form in the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby', 'Chariots of Fire', and 'Chicago'. The 1920's style in the fashion history is a closed form and flat because of simplicity and functionality. The costumes in Chariots of Fire' that focuses on the reappearance of 1920's fashion is a flat and closed form. However, the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby' that presents a symbolic meaning and 'Chicago' that expresses a splendid look are an open and rounded form. Evening dresses are open, with whole recognition and a rounded form because of sheer fabrics, beading, uneven hemlines, and lighting. Daytime dresses are a closed form and flat because of heavyweight fabrics, dark or achromatic colors and non-patterns. Also, open form and rounded, closed form and flat have a similar distribution in diagrams. When the viewer recognizes the form of clothes, they react in a similar way to two-dimensional and three-dimensional presentations that shows that the form of clothes is recognized by the relation with the body. In addition, this study researches the connection between diverse elements such as clothes, body, movements, space, and external elements such as lighting.

Custom Design Making an Application of Patterns of Gold Crown of the Three States Era (삼국시대 금관의 문양을 응용한 복식디자인)

  • Yang, Ji-Na;Lee, Dong-A;Lee, Sang-Eun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.13-22
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    • 2007
  • As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

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A Study of the Usage and Sizing Selecting of the Apparels listed in On-line and Catalog Shopping (온라인 및 카탈로그 통신판매 의류 이용현황 및 치수선택에 대한 연구)

  • 김선희;최혜선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.26 no.7
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    • pp.1015-1025
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    • 2002
  • This study is aimed at investigating and developing the use and sizing system of the apparels listed in on-line and catalog shopping in Korea. This is a basic study for an apparel sizing system to be developed, which could be used to approach consumers more easily and provide improved fitness and accuracy in terms of size and style of apparels for fashion E-commerce. A survey was conducted among the consumers who are more than 18-years-old and purchased more than two times the apparels listed in on-line and catalog shopping of two selected catalog shopping enterprises, and its statistical results are analysed from 281 respondents' questionnaires. The results of the study are as follows: 1. According to the result of the survey on the use and sizing system of the apparels listed in. on-line and catalog shopping, the consumers who purchased once apparels continue doing so in the same manner. A catalog shopping is the most preferred form of shopping. The most dissatisfying part in purchasing apparels is a poor quality of 'texture', and the second biggest problem is about 'size'About 51.2 percent of the apparels were not worn or even returned, while the top reason for that is 'Inappropriate size' and 'color', and 'texture'comes next on the list. 2. According to the survey on the recognition-rate concerning common' body size, most respondents were aware of their height and weight, and So percent of respondents said that they were aware of their waist circumference. But, chest circumference and hip circumference were recognized only by 58.4 percent and 35.6 percent of respondents, respectively. 3. According to the survey on difference between men and women, the male consumers have less aware of hip circumference than the female counterparts. The females have much more dissatisfaction with apparel sizing system and show higher return-rate of purchased apparels than the males.

A Study on Latitudinal Body form of Pregnant Women (임부체형(姙婦體型)의 횡단적(橫斷的) 연구(硏究))

  • Na, Mi Hyang;Park, Jeong Mi;Lee, Yeun Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.177-196
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    • 1993
  • By cluster sampling measurements, passing months of pregnancy according to changes of pregnant women body forms. On the basis of the above mentioned data, sizes of pregnant women clothes were decided. The results are as follows. 1. By cluster sampling measurements, sixty-nine items of apparel were obtained during the three different periods of pregnancy. They included the mean and standard deviation of body form measurement and the minimum and maximum values (Chart 3-4). The results of these surveys made it possible to notice the changes of pregnant womens' physical characteristics, i. e., the increased physical proportions: frontal waist area, umbilicus width, abdominal girth, crotch length, the length of the nipple, and body weight and the decreased proportions: omphalos height, perineum dimension. There was little change in the rear parts of the body. 2. The analized results of principle factors for body form measurements by cluster measurements produced seven major factors for which the proper values were over 1.0. They were: form factor, pregnancy factor, posture factor, breast formation factor, rear body formation factor, and nipple to nipple breadth. 3. In deciding garment sizes of pregnant women, four different sizes were established; small, medium, large, and extra-large according to the third, fifth, eighth, and tenth month of pregnancy. The measurement value of each item was produced by estimate.

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(A) study on digital fashion from the aesthetic perspective of media (디지털 패션의 매체 미학적 관점에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Mina;Ko, Hyun Zin
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.1
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    • pp.48-63
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    • 2017
  • When digital media and images are combined, their significant sociocultural impacts can be exercised. Therefore, this study analyzes digital images shown in such trends of digital media compared to the digital fashion from an aesthetic perspective. Research and empirical studies are focused upon to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of digital fashion. Digital Fashion comprehensively refers to fashion design using computers and software, and is considered as "Fashion Design utilizing Digital Technologies" including computer software and hardware perspectives, so that it may be renamed "Digital Fashion." The esthetic characteristics shown in the Digital Fashion defined above are analyzed according to how media philosophers conceptualize the digital image. First, from the perspective of creation, Digital Fashion Images are technical images produced by computers. Uncanny characteristics expressed through virtual images look more realistic than the actual ones used in experimental works of fashion designers. Such virtuality dynamically expresses various colors and fabric patterns through lights using digital technologies that do not yet exist in cloth form, rather in a non-material form of dynamic virtual imagery. Digital fashion images on monitors express digital fashion designs by shaping virtual images through 3D printing. Second, Digital Fashion Images from the perspective of acceptance are created through deconstruction, while fashion has only been previous viewed visually, Digital Fashion delivers immersions of visual touches as if directly experienced for accepters. Digital Fashion will continuously develop and become more influential as it converges with digital media.

A Study on the Use of 3D Human Body Surface Shape Scan Data for Apparel Pattern Making (의류 패턴 설계를 위한 삼차원 인체 체표면 스캔 데이터 활용에 관한 연구)

  • 천종숙;서동애;이관석
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.10 no.6
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    • pp.709-717
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    • 2002
  • In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

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