Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.
The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.
This study considers application types and meanings of fashion engineering by analyzing CuteCircuit. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The application type of fashion engineering shown in CuteCircuit is first, electronic fashion, which attaches LED or WL on the surface of clothes to express the decorative function in clothes as optical light change, ultimately performing one-dimensional function. Second, interactive fashion is a medium in which clothing connects human beings with other human beings with sensors that can recognize the changes in tactile or movement with the wearer or with a light source that can visualize the emotional changes of the wearer. Third, scientific fashion has emerged as a new type of fashion in which new materials introduced in the field of engineering are fused with clothing to expand functionality and aesthetics. The meanings of fashion engineering in CuteCircuit is first, trying to conceptualize a new beauty as an open fashion that can freely change with the creation of a dual beauty by combining analog and digital sensibility. Second is the external representation of human psychological change or emotional exchange, which helps to form a consensus by understanding and exchanging emotions of different people. Third, reorganization of apparel pursuing integrated value appeared. Clothing, as a connection body in which the human body and the mechanical environment are combined with each other, is reestablished as a product of variable body that can embody an integrated value that includes various characteristics and can be diversified appropriately in any circumstance.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
This paper tried a detailed approach to identify the correlation among basic elements that influenced the change of forms of the Po. To this end, the subjects were limited to the clothing from the 15th to the 18th century, which was found in the tombs of the period of Pyeonbokpo. The total number of excavated artifacts measured directly is 6 and other correctly described excavated artifacts for a total of 54 items. Per period and element, the types of collars and Seop were presented by classifying collars in 4 types, and Seop in 3 types. On the basis of the classification, the relics selected in this paper were analyzed considering the appearance, period, and rate per type of each element. The type and the change of forms of each element per period, with the focus on the appearance, were identified and the factors influencing the change of forms per element and the correlation between such factors were investigated. The representative type in the first period included dual collars, dual Seop and the representative type in the second period was characterized by a shawl collar and a dual Seop joining the pieces. The representative type in the third period was characterized by round collars and a short Seop. The elements determining the forms of Po, including collars and Seop, had a correlation to the lapse of time and had been systematically influencing each other. Furthermore, the overall change of form was caused due to the social functions as well as the supplementary function of keeping balance among the elements and accordingly, the change of forms was think characterized per period.
Purpose - The purpose of this study was to clarify the factors to make an exclusive importation contract between foreign fashion brands and local retailers for successful business in Korea. Even though imported fashion brand market shows stead increasing in terms of sales amount, the number of store related study was very rare in fact. Meanwhile, as long as this business is glowing a lot of brands are suffering from bad business performance or getting in ruins thus these problems result in foreign currency loss. The local marketers therefore, strongly expect to know the solution for this matter. Research design, data, and methodology - For the qualitative research, 10 experts who are operating foreign brands with an exclusive contract at a department store or at duty free shop now and who had at least over 10 years of related working experience were included. The factors for the exclusive importation contract with foreign brands were drawn up through the one-to-one in-depth interview method from September 3, 2017 to January 15, 2018. The expert group for the validity analysis includes 2 professors and 5 postgraduate students. Results - As a result of qualitative study on the factors for imported fashion brand's launching with the exclusive importation contract, it turned out that there were 5 factors - safety, profitability, reliability, speed and global retailing. Safety, profitability, and reliability have been mentioned in most related surveys but some details are added and speed and global retailing have been newly highlighted and many unknown legal issues that it was not easy to get form common academic research are included. Speed simply means quick lead time and global retailing means stores where located in other countries. Conclusions - The reason that qualitative research should be done before the quantitative research is due to the scant theoretical background for this matter. Because the market of an imported fashion brand is steadily increasing, determining the factors to make exclusive importation contract is very meaningful from the point of academic and business. After this study, many marketers may get basic conditions to apply for real business and I hope the following quantitative research will give more effective results. The next study also will have extended range concerning industry area, product and distribution channel.
Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.
The purpose of this study was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China for Chinese Adult Female. For study, It was measured 1381 female women aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. as a sample, 1360 female women was seleted for development of apparel sizing system. As for the method of this study was made of 111 items by indirect measures done during Jun. 23 $\sim$ Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA(t-test and F-test), duncan's multiple test. The result was as follows: Chinese Adult women's constitutional components determined by factor analysis, six components could be identified: factor 1:constitutional obesty and width size, factor 2: longistudinal body size, factor 3: shoulder form and size, factor 4: longistudinal upper body size, factor 5: under body size, factor 6: shoulder dropping. According to the Women's Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997) by drop, body types of Chinese Adult female was classified into six types, it was Y, A, B, C and Z, D. In order, A type as standard somatotype(49.8%), B type(26.9%), Y type (18.8%), C type(2.9%). Y type had the average height and shoulder, bust girth. They were slimmer in overall terms. A type had a normal obesity and body size in height, shoulder, bust girth. They were average Chinese Women. B type had a smaller then A type. They were more obes and thick waist girth. C type had the highest obesity, the widest shoulder and bust girth, and thick waist girth. The characteristics of each body type following the body type structure factor are Y-type for slender type, A-type for standard type, B-type for slightly large type, and C-type for obese type. For each region, the Beijing area had in the order of A-type, Y-type, B-type and C-type, and the Shanghai area had in the order of A-type, B-type, Y-type and C-type.
This paper has the purpose of suggesting a development-method on the fashion products that would secure the competitiveness in the global markets through creating supersensitive practical products on the basis of developing originative fashion-goods being made of jacquard that is fine quality of couture. This paper has collected data through the cases of the developed nations in fashion, precedent studies and all the related literature on the subject. The results of this researching are as following: The first, it is expected that the necessity of developing new fashion products would be appealed toward the prestige group of consumers who are seeking for the fine quality and super-sensitivity in female fashion in Korea, and it is the current situation that the products made of jacquard are gradually expanding not only in the area of apparel, fashion goods and interior but also another areas. The current situation of the global market suggests the necessary strategy of survival, that is, the development of supersensitive materials and creative products which would be able to keep the high quality and lower the selling price through cost reduction. The second, the suggestion of the direction in developing the products of the female fashion made of jacquard has two points - the development of the texture that would realize a unique form and the development of the material that would be able to realize planar pattern and three dimensional pattern which are woven with thin and light materials with various solidity and delicacy through various techniques of mixing and three dimensional expression. The third, the expected ripple effect and utilization generated from the development of fashion products are as followings: As material characteristics of jacquard, It needs the specialization of various techniques and specialized production system in using jacquard, and the specialized technique and system would make it possible to produce not only the higher value-added products through expressing affluent colors and delicate design but also competitive products through cutting the process and cost, eventually, it would lead to the expansion of the jacquard market of super-sensitive prestige. Therefore, it is remarkable that various development of products toward the global market and the prestige female fashion market can suggest the vision that make the national fashion industry develop into the higher value-added knowledge industry integrating technology and culture.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Although we know that images of a country or an industry are influential factors in product evaluation, there has been little discussion about the channels through which consumers form a country or an industry image. Guided by the assumption that the image of the Korean fashion industry conveyed through U.S. media will likely affect the evaluation of Korean fashion products, we decided to examine articles published between January 1998 and June 2008 in Woman's Wear Daily(WWD), a prestigious U.S. daily trade newspaper covering all aspects of the national and international fashion business. By using the "Korean", we found 329 relevant articles. Through content analysis, we identified the aspects of the Korean fashion industry that have been considered salient to U.S. fashion media professionals. We set up categories based on the contents of the articles that discussed segments of the supply chain of the fashion industry. We found more comments on the Korean fashion industry as fiber and fabrics supplier or apparel manufacturer than in any other categories, which reflects that South Korea has been traditionally one of the most attractive sourcing countries for the U.S. fashion business. We identified significantly less coverage on the designing, branding, marketing, and retailing aspects of the Korean fashion industry. Due to economic boom in Korea, the country's fashion industry is recognized as having a highly fashion-conscious market that can afford the world's premium brands. However, the industry is viewed as being rather vulnerable to changes in the macro economic environment.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
This study investigates Korean fighter pilot's usage and satisfaction of a flight duty uniform (FDU). The survey was conducted from October 2014 to March 2015 using Focus Group Interview (FGI) and questionnaires. FGI collected qualitative data about duty and requirements; subsequently, surveys were performed to collect quantitative data about wearing conditions and satisfaction with FDU. The results of the FGI and the questionnaire were as follows. Type of pilot duty was divided into two parts, flight duty and ground duty. It is important to consider duties as well as factors related to survival when developing FDU. According to anthropometric data and wearing size, the basic size for apparel grading should be changed from actual size, 'M95XL' to 'M100L'. It is also necessary to improve the whole sizing system. Further studies about body form changes in pilot's movement are needed to improve mobility because the respondents perceived some restrictions at several body parts in movement with the coverall uniform. Summer FDU had a low satisfaction level in vent hole function and appearance. Furthermore, protection problems in the vent hole were also an issue. Making a seasonal classification of FDU fabric will be more effective than a vent hole to increase a pilot's thermal satisfaction. Respondents had a passive stance towards FDU reform (including pocket change); therefore, a new FDU design strategy should concentrate on improving current FDU functions like mobility (or comfort) rather than dramatic changes. Pilots complained about the quality stability of FDU; therefore, quality control by military administration as well as concrete and clear design instructions by the developer should be attained together. The results obtained in this study are expected to be used as an important basis for the further development of FDU.
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