• Title, Summary, Keyword: 운간

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A Study on the Expression of Clothing and Textiles Recorded in $\mathbb{\ulcorner}$Eigamonokatary(영화물언)$\mathbb{\lrcorner}$ -Focus on Colors and Dyeing- ($\mathbb{\ulcorner}$영화물언$\mathbb{\lrcorner}$에 나타난 복식자료 연구 -색채와 염색을 중심으로-)

  • 문광희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.43
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    • pp.97-108
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    • 1999
  • This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$ focus on Color and Dying. $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Sine they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned we call them "Kasanenoirome". This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time might represent one's official position the black the highest class following the purple the red and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion etc. It is required that the turther studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened. deepened.

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A study of multicolored clamp resist dyeing techniques using a wooden printing-block exchange method (목판 교환 방법을 활용한 다색 협힐 제작기법에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jungeun;Sugano, Kenichi
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.28 no.5
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    • pp.607-620
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    • 2020
  • The aim of this study is to define the new expressive techniques for multicolored clamp resist (hyuphill) dyeing, based on empirical verification on relics that are estimated to be dyed by the exchange of more than two wood blocks: a previously undiscovered technique. Clamp resist dyeing (assumed to be made by exchanging wood blocks) have uneven resist printing lines or cloudy gradation. These are reproduced as follows: first, they have uneven contour lines, particularly with the color blue. It is possible to exchange wood blocks separately on patterns with uneven resist printing lines, and it has been verified that the exchange of wood blocks makes these irregular resist printing lines. It has also been verified that exchanging the wood blocks according to the gradation (to emphasize the cubic effect on the patterns) yields clamp resist dyeing with no resist printing lines but with cloudy gradations that have accented borders. This study provides basic information that enables methods of multicolored clamp resist dyeing through wood block exchange to be deduced (something that has not been attempted for a long time). Thus, the revival of the modern Korean dyeing culture based on the conservation and perseverance of the traditional dyeing techniques can be achieved.

"원씨물어"나타난 복식자료 연구

  • 문광희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.1
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    • pp.155-169
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    • 1997
  • This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

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Effect of Application Method and Concentration of Plant Growth Retardants On Plant Quality of Potted Saxifraga rosacea Moench

  • Park, Yeon Hee;Kim, Yoon Jin;Jung, Hyun Hwan;Kim, Ki Sun
    • FLOWER RESEARCH JOURNAL
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.127-138
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    • 2011
  • Four different plant growth retardants (PGRs), paclobutrazol, flurprimidol, daminozide, and chlormequat, were applied to potted Saxifraga rosacea 'Kumoma' and 'Kumoma-Gusa' plants for control of the growth and flowering. Paclobutrazol (10, 20, 40, $80mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$), flurprimidol (5, 10, 20, $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$), daminozide (500, 1000, 2000, $4000mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$), and chlormequat (50, 100, 200, $400mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$) were applied to the plants by a foliar spray or drenching. In 'Kumoma', application of $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ paclobutrazol by a foliar spray or drenching reduced plant height by 12.5 and 12.6 cm, and flower length by 3.4 and 3.3 cm, respectively. On the other hand, in 'Kumoma-Gusa', drenching of paclobutrazol reduced plant height by 10.7 to 12.6 cm and flower length by 2.0 to 3.9 cm with increasing concentration, but the number of florets almost fell to 20 as compared to 40.5 in the control. 'Kumoma-Gusa' plants drenched with $80mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ paclobutrazol and sprayed with $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ flurprimidol had the shortest heights of 10.7 and 9.9 cm, and floral length of 2.0 and 1.5 cm, respectively. A flurprimidol drenching at $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ delayed the harvest by 3-13 days as compared to the control and the smallest number of florets, 15.6, was observed in this treatment. In both cultivars, chlormequat and daminozide did not effectively influence the growth and flowering. However, number of florets increased to more than 41 at all concentrations and up to 63, the greatest floret number, with chlormequat drench in 'Kumoma-Gusa'. These results demonstrated that over $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ of paclobutrazol or 5 to $20mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ of flurprimidol could be used as PGRs to control the growth of floral length and flowering for improving potted plant quality in S. rosacea 'Kumoma' and 'Kumoma-Gusa'.