• Title, Summary, Keyword: 견직물

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Silk Finishing with Polyurethane Resin used for the Linen-like Finishing (의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 이용한 견직물의 가공)

  • Lee, Jung-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.12
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    • pp.1368-1373
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    • 2003
  • 본 연구에서는 견직물에 강경한 촉감을 부여하여 한복지 뿐만 아니라 현대의 패션경향에도 부합되는 소재를 개발하고자 하였다. 견직물에 강경성을 부여하기 위하여 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 이용하여 수지농도와 큐어링온도에 따른 수지부착율을 조사하였고, 여기에 수반되는 물리적 특성의 변화를 살펴보았다. 또한 가공된 견직물의 세탁에 대한 내구성도 살펴보아 동시에 실용가능성도 검토하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 견직물에 처리할 경우 수지 농도가 증가할수록 수지 부착량이 증가하였다. 2. 열처리온도를 변화시켜 수지부착량의 변화를 살펴본 결과 열처리 온도가 증가할수록 수지의 부착량이 감소하여 본 실험에 사용된 수지의 적정 열처리 온도가 160-18$0^{\circ}C$인 것을 고려해 볼 때 견직물의 경우 17$0^{\circ}C$의 열처리 온도가 적절한 것으로 나타났다. 3. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치의 변화를 살펴본 결과 RT, EM, MIU값은 감소하는 경향을 가지며, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5값은 증가하는 경향을 나타내어 폴리우레탄 수지처리로 의마가공 효과를 갖는 견직물을 얻을 수 있었다. 4. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치는 물세탁 후에도 크게 변화가 없어 세탁에 대한 내구성을 지니고 있는 것으로 나타났다.

Prediction Models for Tactile Sensation/Sensibility Image of Silk Fabrics by Mechanical Properties and Color Characteristics (견직물의 역학적 성질과 색채 특성을 이용한 촉감각/감성 이미지 예측모델)

  • Lee, An-Rye;Yi, Eun-Jou
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.127-136
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    • 2011
  • The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of color characteristics on tactile sensation / sensibility image of silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for their tactile sensation/sensibility image by both mechanical properties and color characteristics. As results, some of tactile sensation/sensibility terms including 'smooth', 'buoyant', 'thick', 'stiff', 'unique', 'casual', 'rural', and 'modern' seemed to be influenced by color characteristics such as achromatic/chromatic and hue / tone as well as by mechanical properties of silk. Moreover, red or green silk was more strongly felt than gray ones for 'thick' and 'stiff' as well as pale or vivid was. On the other hands, 'Rural' and 'casual' were respectively evaluated more highly for green, pale, or vivid silk. These results imply that color could give an effect on subjective tactile sensation / sensibility. Finally, prediction models for some of tactile sensation / sensibility of silk fabrics by both mechanical properties and color characteristics were established.

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Effect of Silk Size and Deguming Percentage of Raw Silk on the Standard on Silk Fabric. (생사의 섬도와 연감률이 편직물의 규격에 미치는 영향)

  • 남중희
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.25-28
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    • 1978
  • 견직물중 제직된 이후에 정련을 요하는 후연직물은 우이중 주자 축면등이 있다. 이들 견직물은 그 무게의 범위가 규정되어 있고 만일에 그 규격에 맞지 않는 경우에는 불합격되는 예가 있다. 이러한 무게를 결정하는 주요한 요소는 생사의 섬도, 연감률, 경사ㆍ위사의 밀도 및 경사ㆍ위사의 면도가 좌우하지마는 경사ㆍ위사의 밀도는 견직물종류에 따른 무게에 의하여 일정한 한도가 정해져 있고 축도 역시 견직물의 종류에 따라서 그에 상당하는 축도가 정해져 있으므로 견직물의 무게를 좌우하는 가장 중요한 요소는 생사의 섬도와 연감율이라고 할 수 있다.

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Studies on Wash and Wear Silk Finishing collaborating Anticrease (방추성을 겸한 견직물 Wash and Wear 가공연구)

  • Choe, Byong-Hee;Lee, Yang-Hoo
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.39-41
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    • 1982
  • 1981년에 견직물 Wash and Wear가공 연구를 국제견업협회(I.S.A) 기술분과위원회에서 발표하였든바 의외로 지대한 관심을 보였는데, 금년초 동협회로부터 8개 종류의 견직물을 송부해와 본 연구의 재확인을 하고싶다 하여 기왕이면 방추성도 향상시키는 실험을 해야 되겠다고 결정하고 본 연구에 착수하였다. 본 연구는 따라서 1982년 I.S.A회의에서 다시 발표하게끔 되어 있다. 본 연구로 얻어진 결과는 다음과 같이 요약할 수 있었다. 1. 수지가공으로 방추성이 나쁜 견직물은 20%정도 향상시킬 수 있었다. 2. 수지가공과 Wash and Wear가공을 단일공정으로 해도 Wash and Wear효과가 있었다. 3. 본래 견직물이 고밀도직으로 되었거나 고연견직일 때는 방추성이 본래 좋아서 수지가공을 해도 수% 밖에 향상되지 못하였다. 4. 견직물조직면으로 볼 때 주자직이나 능직이 평직보다 좋은 방추성을 보였다. 5. 본 연구처리는 염색물의 염색 견뢰도를 향상시키는 효과도 있었다.

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The preference of silk fabrics by the linen-like finishing-used polyurethane resin (의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지로 처리된 견직물의 주관적 선호감성)

  • 이정순
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • pp.209-214
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    • 2002
  • 본 연구는 고부가가치의 섬유를 개발하기 위해서 얻어진 다양한 태 특성을 가진 직물의 적절한 용도를 감각적 감성평가를 통해 밝히려는 목적을 가지고, 첫번째 단계로 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지로 가공처리한 견직물의 선호감성에 영향을 미치는 직물의 개별감각특성을 알아보고자 하였다. 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 이용하여 다양한 강경성이 부여된 견직물에 대한 인간의 주관적인 감각을 평가하고 객관적인 특성과 연관지어 보았다. 강경성이 다르게 제작된 견직물과 시판모시로 구성된 9종류의 직물의 까실까실하다, 매끄럽다, 습하게 느껴진다, 뻣뻣하다, 차다, 하늘하늘하다의 6개의 개별감각과 촉감이 좋다와 여름철소재로 선호한다의 종합적 평가를 행하여 9종류의 직물의 위치도를 작성하여 여름철소재의 선호감성과 촉감, 직물개별감각과의 관계를 분석하였다. 분석결과 여름철소재의 선호감성에 영향을 주는 직물의 개별감각은 부드러워서 촉감은 좋지만 까실까실한 감각이 있어 다소 차게 느껴지는 감각임을 알 수 있었으며 의마가공된 견직물이 여름철 소재로 선호됨을 확인 할 수 있었다.

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Studies on Silk Anticrease Improving by Use of Acrylic Monomer Polymerization Method (아크릴단량체중합에 의한 견직물 방추도 개선에 대한 연구)

  • Choe, Byong-Hee;Lee, Yang-Hoo
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.51-57
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    • 1984
  • This studies have been carried out to find anticrease finishing method other than urea formaldehyde polymerization method which the author had done it with his former report. Acrylic amide polymerization method with water solubility controlling device was developed in this parer and the obtained results are as followings. 1. Poor anticrease silk textile could improve as much as 25% than original fabric. 2. Light density with high twisted silk textiles may improve a few per cent increase of anticrease, because they held good anticrease nature as well as polyester fabric. 3. There was no significant stiffness change after such finish. 4. This finish is recommended to carry after dyeing process either yarn dye or cloth dyeing. 5. The finished textile with this method is recommended to wash with dry cleanning method.

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A Study on the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Enzyme - Effect of the Predegumming Degrees on the handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Protease - (효소정련 견직물의 태에 관한 연구(II) - 조련정도가 효소정련견직물의 태에 미치는 영향 -)

  • 이용우;김중태
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.67-72
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    • 1987
  • This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

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Survey of Colorfastness of Korean Silk Fabrics (국내산 견직물의 염색견뢰도조사)

  • G. Freddi
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.32 no.1
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    • pp.68-72
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    • 1990
  • The color fastness of Korean silk fabrics was measured in this investigation. The sample fabrics under examination were divided into four groups, according to the processing cycle: 1) Plain dyeing(A-C) : 2) Yarn dyeing(D;E=Knitted fabric) ; 3) Direct printing(F-H) ; 4) Discharge Printing(I-P) : The following result can be obtained. Among the samples examined, both the plain-dyed(brilliant colours) and discharge-printed (put-in colours) fabrics show lower values of water, perspiration and ironing color fastness compared with those recommended by International Organization for Standardization(I. S. O.)

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Chemical Modification of Silk by Ethylene Cyanohydrin (에틸렌 시아노히드린에 의한 실크의 화학적 개질)

  • Lee, Geun-Souk;Bae, Do-Gyu
    • Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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    • v.26
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    • pp.23-30
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    • 2008
  • In this paper, when the silk fabric was modified by ethylene cyanohydrine, the reaction mechanism between both was studied at various treatment conditions such as curing temperatures and times, ethylene cyanohydrin concentrations and $ZnCl_2$ concentrations. Through the FT-IR and DSC analyses of the treated silk fabrics, we found the results as follows : It was observed in FT-IR analysis of the treated silk fabrics that the -OH characteristic peak($3,450cm^{-1}$)position and shape were all changed when drying and curing treatment conditions were at $80^{\circ}C$ for 3 minute and $110^{\circ}C$ for 2.5 minute, and the concentration of the $ZnCl_2$ was 0.1%. It indicated that the -OH group of the silk participated in the reaction between the silk fabric and ethylene cyanohydrin. From the DSC analysis, it was found that the pyrolysis temperatures of the treated silk fabrics by ethylene cyanohydrin which was processed in the same condition, were all increased from $311^{\circ}C$ to ab. $320^{\circ}C$. From the FT-IR analyses of the silk fabrics treated by ethylene cyanohydrin at the various concentrations of $ZnCl_2$, it was found that the -OH characteristic peaks($3,450cm^{-1}$) were similar to the nontreated one except that of the fabric treated at the $ZnCl_2$ conconcentration of 0.8% when drying and curing treatment conditions were at $80^{\circ}C$ for 3minute and $110^{\circ}C$ for 2.5 minute, and the concentration of the ethylene cyanohydrin was 5%. In the case of the $ZnCl_2$ concentration of 0.8% solution, a lot of change were observed in peak. From the DSC analysis of the treated silk fabrics which was processed in the same condition, it was showed that the pyrolysis temperatures of treated silk fabric were all increased from $311^{\circ}C$ to ab. $320^{\circ}C$, which was no relation with the concentration of $ZnCl_2$.

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Tactile Sensibility Factors of Traditional Silk Fabrics (전통 견직물의 촉각적 감성요인)

  • Yi, Eun-Jou
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.99-111
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    • 2007
  • In order to identify tactile sensibility factors of traditional silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for the sensibility factors by mechanical properties, seventeen different traditional silk fabrics were evaluated in terms of both tactile sensation and sensibility by using a modified magnitude estimation line scale Gongdan and Newttong with lower values for surface roughness(SMD), bending rigidity(B), and compression resilience(RC) were rated as softer, smoother, fluffier, and more pliable in tactile sensation than any other traditional silk fabrics whereas Nobangju haying higher B, SMD, and tensile resilience(RT) was touched as crisper, more rustling, and springier. Three different tactile sensibility factors including 'Feminine', 'Natural', and 'Casual' were obtained significantly by grouping fifteen different tactile sensibility descriptors. In the prediction models sensibility 'Feminine' was explained positively by SMD, which was supported by the fact that both Gongdan and Newtton were perceived as more feminine. Sensibility 'Natural' that was felt stronger as for Myoungju and Sa was predicted negatively by both fabric thickness(T) and RT. Finally, RC, elongation at maximum load (EM), and T predicted sensibility 'Casual' negatively, which results in its higher factor scores for Myoungju and Shantung, respectively.

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