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Effect of Blend Ratio and Fabric Structural Factor Affecting Garment Formability of Wool/Polyester Blend Fabric

울/폴리에스터 혼방직물의 혼용율과 직물 구조인자가 의류의 입체성형성에 미치는 영향

  • Kim, Hyun Ah (Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry)
  • 김현아 (한국패션산업연구원 연구개발본부)
  • Received : 2020.04.16
  • Accepted : 2020.05.14
  • Published : 2020.08.31

Abstract

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

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