DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Spectroscopic Comparison of Photo-oxidation of Outside and Inside of Hair by UVB Irradiation

자외선B 조사에 의한 모발 외부와 내부의 광산화에 관한 분광학적 비교

  • Ha, Byung-Jo (Department of Beauty & Cosmetic Science, Eulji University)
  • 하병조 (을지대학교 미용화장품과학과)
  • Received : 2020.03.11
  • Accepted : 2020.03.25
  • Published : 2020.04.10

Abstract

Hair is made of proteins containing various amino acids. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is believed to be responsible for the most damaging effects of sunlight, and also plays an important role in hair aging. The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes in morphological and chemical structures after ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation of human hair. The UVB-irradiated hair showed characteristic morphological and structural changes, compared to those of the normal hair. The result from a scanning electron microscope (SEM) equipped with an energy dispersive X-ray diffractometer (EDX) showed that the scale of UV-irradiated hair appeared to be rough and the amount of oxygen element was higher than that of the normal hair. Fluorescence and three dimensional (3D) topographical images were obtained by a confocal laser scanning microscope (CLSM). In 3D images, the green emission intensity of normal hair was much higher than that of fluorescing UVB-irradiated hair. The intensity of green emission reflects the intrinsic fluorescence of hair protein. Also, a fluorescent imaging method using fluorescamine reagent was used to identify the free amino groups resulting from a peptide bond breakage in UVB-irradiated hair. Strong blue fluorescence of UVB-irradiated hair, which indicates a very high level of amino groups, was observed by CLSM. Therefore, the fluorescamine as an extrinsic fluorescence could provide a useful tool to identify the peptide bond breakage in UVB-irradiated hair. Infrared image mapping was also employed to assess the cross-sections of normal and UVB-irradiated specimens to examine the oxidation of disulfide bonds. The degree of peak areas with strong absorbance for the disulfide mono-oxide was spread from the outside to the inside of hair. The spectroscopic techniques used alone, or in combination, launch new possibilities in the field of hair cosmetics.

References

  1. A. H. Powitt, Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified, Milady Publishing Corp., New York (1970).
  2. C. R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 4th Edition, Springer Verlag, New York (2002).
  3. D. P. Harland, R. J. Walls, J. A. Vernon, J. M. Dyer, J. L. Woods, and F. Bell, Three dimensional architecture of macrofibrils in the human scalp hair cortex, J. Struct. Biol., 185, 397-404 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jsb.2014.01.010
  4. J. M. Dyer, J. E. Plowman, G. I. Krsinic, S. Deb-Choudhury, H. Koehn, K. R. Millington, and S. Clerens, Proteomic evaluation and location of UVB-induced photo-oxidation in wool, J. Photochem. Photobiol. B. Biol., 98, 118-127 (2010). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2009.11.008
  5. C. M. Pande and J. Jschowicz, Hair photodamage-measurement and prevention, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 109-122 (1993).
  6. B. J. Ha, Instrumental analysis of the human hair damage by bleaching treatments, J. Fashion Business, 12, 23-33 (2008).
  7. B. K. Filshie and G. E. Rogers, An electron microscope study of the structure of feather keratin, J. Cell Biol., 13, 1-12 (1962). https://doi.org/10.1083/jcb.13.1.1
  8. L. J. Wolfram and M. K. O. Lindermann, Some observations on hair cuticle, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 839-850 (1971).
  9. R. C. Clay, K. Cook, and J. I. Routh, Studies on the composition of human hair, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 62, 2709-2710(1940). https://doi.org/10.1021/ja01867a030
  10. D. Sanford and F. L. Humoller, Determination of cystine and cysteine in altered human hair fibers, Anal. Chem., 19, 404-406(1947). https://doi.org/10.1021/ac60006a014
  11. J. H. Bradbury, The structure and chemistry of keratin fibers, Adv. Protein Chem., 27, 111-211(1973).
  12. J. M. Lagarde, P. Peyre, D. Redoules, D. Black, M. Briot, and Y. Gall, Confocal microscopy of hair, Cell Biol. Toxicol., 10, 301-304 (1994). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00755774
  13. M. Rajadhyaksha, S. Gouzalez, J. M. Zavislan, R. R. Anderson, and R. H. Webb., In vivo confocal scanning laser microscopy of human hair II, J. Invest Dermatol., 113, 293-303 (1999). https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1523-1747.1999.00690.x
  14. A. Nwaneshiudu, C. Kuschal, F. H. Sakamoto, R. Anderson, K. Schwarzenberger, and R. C. Younger, Introduction to confocal microscopy, J. Invest. Dermatol., 132, 1-5 (2012).
  15. C. M. Pande and J. Jachowicz, Hair photodamage measurement and prevention, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 109-122 (1993).
  16. M. Rajadhyaksha, S. Gouzalez, D. Esterowitz, R. H. Webb, and R. R. Anderson, In vivo confocal scanning laser microscopy of human hair; Melanin provides string contrast, J. Invest. Dermatol., 104, 946-952 (1995). https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12606215
  17. P. Corcuff, P. Gremillet, M. Jourlin, Y. Duvaukt, F. Leroy, and J. L. Leveque, 3D reconstruction of human hair by confocal microscopy, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 1-12 (1993).
  18. S. Udenfriend, S. Stein, P. Bohlen, W. Dairman, W. Leimgruber, and M. Weigele, Fluorescamine: A reagent for assay of amino acids, peptides, proteins, and primary amines in the picomole range, Science, 178, 871-872 (1972). https://doi.org/10.1126/science.178.4063.871
  19. A. M. Felix and M. H. Jimenez, Rapid fluorometric determination for completeness in solid phase coupling reactions, Anal. Biochem., 52, 377-381(1973). https://doi.org/10.1016/0003-2697(73)90040-7
  20. M. Zielinski, A new approach to hair surface topography: Fourier transform and fractal analysis, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 173-189 (1989).
  21. M. A. Mujeeb and M. K. Zafar, FTIR spectroscopic analysis of human hair, Int. J. Innovative Res. in Sci. Eng. and Tech., 6, 9327-9332(2017).
  22. D. J. Lyman and J. Murray-Wijelath, Fourier transform infrared attenuated total refraction analysis of human hair: Comparison of human hair from breast cancer patients with hair from healthy subjects, Appl. Spectrosc., 59, 26-32 (2005). https://doi.org/10.1366/0003702052940440
  23. W. Akhtar, H. G. Edwards, and D. W. Farwell, Fourier-transform raman spectroscopic study of human hair, Spectrochim. Acta, Part A. Mol. Biomol. Spectrosc., 53, 1021-1031 (1997). https://doi.org/10.1016/S1386-1425(97)00055-3
  24. C. M. Carr and D. M. Lewis, An FTIR spectroscopic study of the photodegradation and thermal degradation of wool, J. Soc. Dye. Colour, 109, 21-24 (1993).
  25. M. Joy and D. M. Lewis, The use of Fourier transform infra-red spectroscopy in the study of the surface chemistry of hair fibres, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 13, 249-261 (1991). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00565.x
  26. J. Strassburger, Quantitative fourier transform infrared spectroscopy of oxidized hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 36, 61-74 (1985).
  27. V. Signori and D. M. Lewis, FTIR investigation of the damage produced on human hair by weathering and bleaching processes: Implementation of different sampling techniques and data processing, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 19, 1-13 (1997). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1997.tb00161.x
  28. R. Mendelsohn, M. E. Rerek, and D. J. Moore, Infrared spectroscopy and microscopic imaging of stratum corneum models and skin invited lecture, Phys. Chem. Chem. Phys., 2, 4651-4657 (2000). https://doi.org/10.1039/b003861j