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Studies on Skin Permeation with Polymer Micelles and the Cell Penetrating Peptide of Pyrus Serotina Var Stem Extracts

  • An, Gyu Min (Department of Senior Healthcare, majored in Cosmetic Pharmacology, Eulji University) ;
  • Park, Su In (Department of Senior Healthcare, majored in Cosmetic Pharmacology, Eulji University) ;
  • Kim, Min Gi (Department of Senior Healthcare, majored in Cosmetic Pharmacology, Eulji University) ;
  • Heo, Soo Hyeon (Department of Senior Healthcare, majored in Cosmetic Pharmacology, Eulji University) ;
  • Shin, Moon Sam (Department of Senior Healthcare, majored in Cosmetic Pharmacology, Eulji University)

Abstract

The stem extract from Pyrus serotina var has natural antioxidant ability, but the extraction method does not result in a soluble compound in cosmetic formulations. This study investigated the cosmetic efficacy of the Pyrus serotina var stem extract and its epidermis permeation ability when combined with polymer micelles and a cell penetrating peptide. The total concentration of polyphenol compounds was determined to be $103.1644{\pm}1.38mg/g$ in the ethanol extract and $78.97{\pm}1.45mg/g$ in the hydrothermal extract. The 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging effects were $55.94{\pm}0.22%$ in the ethanol extract at 1,000 mg/L. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity rates were $104.05{\pm}3.28%$ in the ethanol extract at 62.5 mg/L. The elastase inhibition rate was $67.21{\pm}2.72%$ in the ethanol extract at 1,000 mg/L. An antimicrobial effect was observed in the Propionibacterium acnes strain. In the epidermal permeability experiment, it was confirmed that formulation of the polymer micelle containing the Pyrus serotina var stem extract and cell penetrating peptide (R6, hexa-D-arginine) showed small particle size and much better skin permeability. The cumulative amount of total Pyrus serotina var stem extract that penetrated to the skin over time increased over 24 hours in three formulations. The three formulations showed $51.61{\mu}g/cm^2$ (Formulation 0), $75.97{\mu}g/cm^2$ (Formulation 1) and $95.23{\mu}g/cm^2$ (Formulation 2) skin penetration, respectively. Therefore, it was confirmed that the ethanol extracts of Pyrus serotina var stem showed good cosmetic efficacy and excellent epidermis permeation ability when combined with a polymer micelle and cell penetrating peptide. Thus, this extract has the potential to be used as a safe and natural cosmetic material in the future.