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Natural Dyeing of Cationic-modified New Rayon (cocell) Fabric - Gallnut-

양이온화 뉴레이온(코셀) 직물의 천연염색에 관한 연구 - 오배자를 중심으로 -

  • Kim, Ha-Yeon (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Kyungpook National University) ;
  • Lee, Shin-Hee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Kyungpook National University)
  • Received : 2019.02.20
  • Accepted : 2019.03.19
  • Published : 2019.06.30

Abstract

This study investigated the substantivity of anionic dyes for cationic-modified new rayon (cocell) fabric treated with cationic agent (CA), 3-(Chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)-trimethylammonium chloride (CA). We also investigate the dyeability of cationic-modified new rayon fabric after dyeing with gallut. CA was converted in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide into epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Treating with this epoxy reagent modified the hydroxyl groups of the new rayon fabric into the trimethylammonium group through ether linkage. The introduction of new cationic sites into new rayon fabric by pretreating with cationic agent improved the substantivity of the Gallnut dye with the new rayon dyebath. The degree of the cationization of cationic-modified new rayon and cotton fabric was evaluated by nitrogen (N) content. This study extracted the colorant of gallnut with hot water at $90^{\circ}C$ and 120 min. Cationic-modified new rayon fabric dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration of gallnut, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and concentration of cationic agent. Dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation after dyeing with gallut solution. In addition, fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The degree of crystallinity of new rayon and cotton fabric were 42.15% and 54.94%, respectively. N (%) content of cationic-modified new rayon was higher than the cationic-modified cotton. Dyeability (K/S) increased significantly with the increasing concentration of CA and gallut.

Keywords

new rayon;gallut;natural dyeing;color fastness;dyeability;degree of crystallinity

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