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Composition Ratio Analysis of Transesterification Products of Olive Oil by Using Thin Layer Chromatography and Their Applicability to Cosmetics

올리브 오일의 에스터 교환반응 생성물의 TLC를 이용한 조성비 분석 및 화장품에의 응용가능성 평가

  • Park, So Hyun (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Shin, Hyuk Soo (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Kim, A Rang (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Jeong, Hyo Jin (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Xuan, Song Hua (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Hong, In Kee (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Lee, Dae Bong (eBio Korea) ;
  • Park, Soo Nam (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology)
  • 박소현 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 신혁수 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 김아랑 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 정효진 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 현송화 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 홍인기 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 이대봉 ((주)이바이오코리아) ;
  • 박수남 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터)
  • Received : 2018.02.19
  • Accepted : 2018.04.30
  • Published : 2018.06.10

Abstract

In this study, the physicochemical properties, emulsifying capacity, moisture content and cytotoxicity of the composite material produced by transesterification reactions of the olive oil (olive oil esters) were investigated for cosmetic applications. Olive oil esters with short (S) and long (L) reaction times were studied. From the TLC-image analysis, composition ratios of the olive oil esters S were found to be 5.2, 24.1, 46.4, and 21.9% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. Those of the olive oil esters L were 4.1, 24.7, 40.6, and 28.8% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. The iodine value, acid value, saponification value, unsaponified matter, refractive index, and specific gravity were determined and purity tests were also carried out and normalized to establish standards and testing methods for using olive oil esters in cosmetics. To evaluate their emulsifying capacities, the O/W emulsion was prepared without surfactants and the formation of the emulsified particles were confirmed. After 5 days of applying the olive oil esters to human skin, the skin moisture retention was improved by 13.1% from the initial state. For the evaluation of toxicity on human skin cells, the olive oil esters showed 90% or more of the cell viability at $0.2-200{\mu}g/mL$. These results suggested that olive oil esters can be applied as natural/non-toxic ingredients to cosmetics industries.

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