Shallow-water Design Waves at Gangreung Beach through the Analysis of Long-term Measured Wave Data and Numerical Simulation Using Deepwater Wave Conditions

장기 파랑관측자료 분석 및 천해파 수치실험에 의한 강릉 해역의 천해설계파

  • Received : 2012.05.02
  • Accepted : 2012.10.24
  • Published : 2012.10.31


In this study, shallow-water design waves are calculated for the return period of 10, 20, 30, and 50 years, based on the extreme value analysis of the wave measurement data at Gangneung beach. These values are compared with the results of SWAN simulation with the boundary condition of the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods at the Gangneung sea area provided by the Fisheries Agency (FA, 1988) and Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute (KORDI, 2005). It is found that the shallow-water wave heights at Gangneung beach calculated by the deep-water design waves were significantly less than the observation data. As the return period becomes higher, the significant wave heights obtained by the extreme value analysis becomes higher than those computed by SWAN with the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods. KORDI computed the hindcast wave data from January 2004 to August 2008 by WAM with a finer-grid mesh system than those of previous studies. Comparisons of the wave hindcast results with the wave observation show that the reproducibility of the winter-season storm wave was considerably improved compared to the hindcast data from 1979 to 2003. Hereafter, it is necessary to carry out hindcast wave data for the years before 2004 using WAM with the finer-grid mesh system and to supplement the deep-water design wave.


deepwater design wave;shallow-water design wave;long-term wave data;hindcast wave data;fine grid;WAM model


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Cited by

  1. Analysis of Confidence Interval of Design Wave Height Estimated Using a Finite Number of Data vol.25, pp.4, 2013,
  2. Coastal Wave Hind-Casting Modelling Using ECMWF Wind Dataset vol.21, pp.5, 2015,
  3. Comparison of the Shallow-Water Design Wave Height on the Korean East Coast Based on Wave Observation Data and Numerical Simulation vol.28, pp.5, 2016,
  4. Wave Height and Downtime Event Forecasting in Harbour with Complex Topography Using Auto-Regressive and Artificial Neural Networks Models vol.29, pp.4, 2017,


Grant : 연안파랑 관측, 분석 및 장기산출, 천해용 해상도시 건설을 위한 계류앵커 기술 개발

Supported by : 한국해양과학기술원