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Analysis of Dyes and Mordants of 16~17th Century Textiles Excavated from Daejeon

16~17세기 출토염직품의 염료와 매염제 분석

  • Received : 2012.04.03
  • Accepted : 2012.05.25
  • Published : 2012.06.20

Abstract

Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.

Keywords

Excavated textiles;16~17th century;Daejeon;Dye analysis by HPLC-PDA;Mordant analysis by SEM-EDX

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Cited by

  1. Analysis of natural dyes in archeological textiles using TOF-SIMS and other analytical techniques vol.46, pp.S1, 2014, https://doi.org/10.1002/sia.5594
  2. Analysis on the Textile and Dye Used for the Book Cover and Slipcase Housed in the Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum vol.32, pp.3, 2016, https://doi.org/10.12654/JCS.2016.32.3.05

Acknowledgement

Supported by : Korea Research Foundation