A Study on Changes in the Cooking Process of Gruel in Cook Books Written during Last 100 Years

근대 이후 죽의 조리과정 변화 연구 -팥죽, 잣죽, 타락죽을 중심으로-

  • Received : 2011.10.08
  • Accepted : 2011.12.12
  • Published : 2011.12.31


The purpose of this study was to investigate changes in the cooking process of $Pat-juk$(red beans porridge), $Jat-juk$(pine-nut porridge) and $Tarak-juk$(milk porridge) in cooking books published after Korean modern era, approximately from late 19th century to the present. We analyzed 11 historical cook books were analyzed. It is found that the amount of red beans used for $Pat-juk$ was the same or more than that of rice but never less than rice. Only one cook book suggested sugar as seasoning for final taste, but all the other cook books mentioned salt for final taste. $Hangukeumat$(1987) suggested the method for obtaining optimum color for $Pat-juk$. After smashing and passing through the cooked red beans, collecting the red bean water to boil first and then adding the passed through red beans to boil together, in which rice will be added the last to be boiled. For $Jat-juk$, the ratio of the amount of pine-nut and rice were varied among cook books that the amount of pine-nut can be more, same or less than rice. $Jat-juk$ can have salty or sweet, so sugar, honey or salt were used for final seasoning. Pine-nut and rice were cooked together or cooked successively depending on cook books. The changes in cooking procedures of $Tarak-juk$ were the portion of milk used and the method of preparing rice before making the porridge. Firstly, the portion of milk increased over time. $Tarak-juk$ can be also tasting both sweet or salty, so sugar or salt was used for final seasoning. Secondly, two method of preparing rice were found; one is that rice was ground after soaking in water and the other is that rice was ground and toasted before putting into the porridge. When the ground rice was toasted, the milk was added with water at the same time because the cooking time of the porridge with toasted rice was shortened so that the milk could be added earlier than the other method without the risk of sticking on the bottom of the pot. In further studies, the cooking procedures used in the previous period of the late 19th century should be examined. Also after restoring all the cooking methods suggested in cook books, the comparison of the sensorial and nutritional value needs to be carried out for applying or reinventing new recipe for food industry.


historical Korean food;Pat-juk;Jat-juk;Tarak-juk;rice porridge


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