Effect of the Pattern Making Method on the Silhouette of the Flared Skirt

패턴 제작 방법이 플레어스커트의 실루엣에 미치는 영향

  • Shin, Young-Ran (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Gyeongsang National University) ;
  • Chu, Mi-Seon (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Gyeongsang National University)
  • 신영란 (경상대학교 자연과학대학 의류학과) ;
  • 추미선 (경상대학교 자연과학대학 의류학과)
  • Received : 2008.09.19
  • Accepted : 2008.11.27
  • Published : 2008.12.31

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

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