Transition of Women's Hairstyles after Renaissance to 20th Century

르네상스 이후 20세기에 이르는 여성 헤어스타일의 변천

  • Lee, Kyung-Hee (Dept. of Textile & Fashion Engineering, Kumoh National Institute of Technology)
  • 이경희 (금오공과대학교 섬유패션공학전공)
  • Received : 2006.06.21
  • Published : 2007.02.28

Abstract

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

References

  1. 丹野郁(1980) '西洋服飾發達史(現代編)'. 光生館, 東京 p.23
  2. Jacqueline, H. (1981) 'Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500'. Humanities Press, NJ, pp.210-255
  3. Colin, M. (1992) 'HATS'. Thames and Hudson, London, p.8-9.
  4. 津田紀代 (2003) '華やぐ女たち(2003)', ポーラ文硏究所, 東京, pp .6-56
  5. 津田紀代 (2005) 'ヘアモードの時代'. ポーラ文化研究所, 東京, pp.6-58
  6. Renee, H. (1982) 'Hair-Styles and Head-Dresses'. Batsford, London, pp.15-63
  7. Blanche P. (1965) 'Hiatory of Costume' . HARPER & ROW, NY, p.175
  8. 패션전문자료사전 편찬위원회 (1997) 'Fashion 전문 자료사전', 한국사전연구사, 서울, p.1407
  9. Marybelle, S.B. (1979) 'Fashion in History'. Burgess, Minnesota, p.137,180,255
  10. 이경희 (2001) '20세기의 모드' 교학연구사, 서울, p.27