Effect of Fabric Design Condition on the Mechanical Properties and Handle of Nylon/Cotton Union Fabrics for Sport Jacket

스포츠쟈켓용 나일론/면 교직물의 설계조건에 따른 역학적 특성과 태

  • 권오경 (주식회사 청우섬유 기술연구소) ;
  • 송민규 (한국섬유개발연구원)
  • Received : 2003.03.05
  • Published : 2003.06.30

Abstract

Tactel(Nylon66) union fabrics were woven with the specification of 70d/34f nylon as warp for sport wear jacket. Weft yarn has three types; 100% cotton yarn, nylon core-spun yarn and nylon-polyurethane covering yarn as weft. Fabric structers were plain, twill and satin weave structure with the air jet loom. The mechanical properties of 8 fabrics were measured with KES-F and primary Hand Values and Total Hand Values were calculated. The results of the study were as follows: 1) There was little difference among LTs of N/CM fabric groups. RT of the fabrics with CM100's was bigger than that of fabrics with CM80's, resulting that the fabrics with CM100's have better formability. In terms of weaving structure, twill fabrics have shape deformation. 2) In comparison of RTs with weft yarn type, RT of N-PU covering yarn was the highest, followed by Nylon core-spun yarn and cotton yarn. Thus, the fabric with N-PU covering yarn has better stability of shape deformation. 3) Stretch yarn could express an excellent silhouette formation and twill and satin structures were better structure to make curvature on human form. 4) 2HG/G value of nylon core-spun fabrics was larger than that of N/C fabrics, but the silhouette formation of N/C fabrics was excellent. 5) The RC of N/PU was the highest, followed by N/P, and N/CM. 6) Koski of N/PU fabrics was the highest, Numeri of N/PU and N/Co-I were relatively higher than the others. THVs of N/CM-IV and N/CO-II were lower than the others, resulting that, twill structure was better than plain structure for a sport wear uses.

Keywords

mechanical property;nylon/cotton union fabric;fabric design;hand value

References

  1. 권헌선 . 성수광 . 권오경 (1998) 시판한복지의 태에 관한 연구-역학적특성치와 기능특성치. 한국섬유공학회지, 35, 376-384
  2. 川端李雄 (1973) 風合いの訃量のため布のカ學特性のキャラクりゼ-キャラクりゼ-ツヨソ-およびその訃測 ツステムについて. 日本纖濰械學會誌, 26, 721-728
  3. 川端李雄 .丹羽稚子 (1980) 風合ぃの計算式KN-101,KN-102 および KN-103. 日本纖濰械學會誌, 33(2), 164-169
  4. 이창미 . 김태규 . 권오경 (1998) 진바지의 착용 후 부위별 피로도에 관한 연구. 한국의류학회지, 22(2), 257-266
  5. Apparelnews (2003) http://www.appaire1news.co.kr/com/tacte1. htm
  6. 丹羽隹伓子 (1975) 訃測による風合い判斷-最近の進步とその應用. 日本纖濰械學會誌, 28, 503-518
  7. 近岡和英(1980) 布の製造條件と力學的特性. 日本纖濰械學會誌, 33, 329-334